|
Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
|
Thread Tools |
7th Oct 2020, 8:00 pm | #21 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,454
|
Re: Wood to make small case
For mitre's, if the power saw does compound angles and the box isn't too deep you can cut the opposing sides of the box together two at a time....perfect matching, last one I did was a for a box frame for one of the kid's artwork display, that was done using my old Makita compound mitre saw.
Lawrence. |
7th Oct 2020, 8:15 pm | #22 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Re: Wood to make small case
In the past I have made boxes from MDF merrily using right angle joints with "glue and screws". After the glue (PVA) had dried I took the screws out, drilled the holes and stuck in dowels, these are available pre cut with a groovy exterior to allow for a bit of grip.
|
7th Oct 2020, 9:02 pm | #23 |
Pentode
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Conwy, Clwyd, UK.
Posts: 246
|
Re: Wood to make small case
I sometimes use a rebate joint when making boxes. They are easy to make using the depth stop on the mitre saw. Stronger than a butt joint and much stronger than a mitre, although not as elegant obviously. Set the depth of the rebate quite deep to minimise the amount of end grain on show.
I like mahogany. Nothing like as durable as oak but much easier to cut and work. It finishes easily as well, it quickly builds to a high gloss using button polish, or back it off with steel wool and wax for lower shine. Gorgeous. Old furniture is a good source for mahogany, in fact I'm not sure you can even buy it 'new' any more as it's a tropical hardwood. Glyn |
7th Oct 2020, 11:30 pm | #24 |
Pentode
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 174
|
Re: Wood to make small case
There are a lot of hardwoods termed 'mahogany' and you certainly can still buy it. Cuban mahogany might be a little hard to obtain though. Honduran mahogany is on CITES II, which means it's export is controlled. There are other similar alternatives such as African mahogany or sapele. Sapele is somewhat harder than true mahoganies. For electronic project boxes we are really referring to off cuts, very small pieces. Old hardwood doors might be a good source of mahogany like wood. They became popular in the 80's and 90's. Then folk started throwing perfectly good doors out only to replace them with plastic.
|
8th Oct 2020, 8:25 am | #25 |
Pentode
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Immingham, North East Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 174
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Hello,
I have just made a plinth for my connoisseur table using cut to size walnut from Woodshop direct. I used a dowel jig to drill the front and sides together on the same machine, same with the back, then pva glue on the pegs and clamp. A bit expensive but it has to look good. It was my first attempt at joinery and has come out well. I can post pictures when I work out how to if anyone is interested. John. |
8th Oct 2020, 8:40 am | #26 | |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, UK.
Posts: 2,288
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Quote:
Gardner and Scardifield's wood shop in Lancing West Sussex has a massive stock of hardwood offcuts at very reasonable prices. Peter |
|
8th Oct 2020, 9:12 am | #27 |
Octode
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fleet, Hampshire, UK
Posts: 1,764
|
Re: Wood to make small case
It might be because I'm cheap, but I dont tend to buy wood for my projects . The shops referenced in this thread are interesting, I might have to consider buying a few bits for more special projects
I usually use salvaged pieces - I've recently built a few bits out of an old mahogany wardrobe someone offered free on facebook. I tend to scavenge these bits, cut them up and put them in the loft for later DIY store wood is useless for wood working, fine for building. Their plywood is very often warped and of a red colour. When faced with the problem of warped ply recently, I decided to use MDF and veneer it. MDF you can trust to be flat, because you dont have the wood structures working against each other in layers of poor quality ply. Its very easy to work with cuts and sands very easily, and easy to join with a dowel jig Veneering is a lot easier than it looks, I know very little and was able to get decent results quite quickly, even with quite poor veneer. So, some cheap MDF, and a bit of veneer, and you can have a very nice looking piece |
8th Oct 2020, 9:32 am | #28 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK.
Posts: 3,738
|
Re: Wood to make small case
I made the wood surround for my amplifier, using leftover oak floor boards ,mitred the joints and glued with mitre glue ,using the activator , there is a groove near the top which takes the black aluminium top of the chassis ,a thin veneer was cut and mitred around the front panel, Mick.
|
8th Oct 2020, 9:37 am | #29 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Glossop, Derbyshire, UK.
Posts: 487
|
Re: Wood to make small case
The 45 deg lock miter is fine for this kind of job as it forms a locking joint
__________________
Any tool can be used as a hammer but a screwdriver makes the best chisel |
8th Oct 2020, 9:43 am | #30 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
|
Re: Wood to make small case
I've yet to make a case for my Bardwell's stereo amplifier, but w hen I do, I'll use 9mm B&Q construction grade plywood joined as shown in the attached sketch and will veneer it with oak veneer. Finished with one coat of sanding sealer, sprayed with gloss auto lacquer, buffed with 'Yorkshire Grit' wax polish.
The case needed is quite small - 22cm long x 13cm deep x 10cm high. (8.5" x 7" x 4"). The veneer on the front and rear edges of the box will be mitred at the corners and the finished appearance will be as solid oak box with mitred corners. Not cabinetry - just carpentry. The reason I'll make the corner joints as shown is that apart from it being a simply and strong joint, with no jig or special tools needed, there is little end grain showing. If you make a butt joint with the full width of end grain showing, the apply veneer, however neatly the joint is made and sanded, when veneered, there is a risk of the joint 'telegraphing' through the veneer. That is that there will be a visible hump along the length of the joint. As the capacity of my bandsaw is only 6" I can't cut oak 7" wide as otherwise, I'd make a comb jointed box using my homemade jig which I've posted about before. I've generally made project boxes for my homebrew test gear projects in mahogany or oak because to my eyes, it gives a vintage appearance evocative of crystal set and the like. I've usually finished them with several coats of shellac sanding sealer, diluted 50/50 with meths and polished with pastewax. However, dark oak and mahogany aren't in keeping with current trends so my Bardwelll's case will be light oak (A but like 'Pure Evoke' radios). Just my preference. Regarding 'plywood', the ply sold in DIY stores is not plywood as we used to know it. It has a nondescript hardwood veneer and low grade core. 'Furniture grade' ply is known as 'birch through and through'. Alternate layers of 1mm thick birch veneers. B&Q sell only one thickness, (18mm) in 8 x 4 ft sheets and it's expensive. However, the normal so called 'hardwood' ply if fine for veneering, or where the finished article isn't a piece of furniture. I've used the 9mm ply extensively, either veneered for cabinetry, or where appearance doesn't matter (storage boxes, etc), just as it is. 9mm plywood .61m (2ft) x 1.22mm (4ft): https://www.diy.com/departments/smoo...1696258_BQ.prd Birch through and through 18mm 1.22 M x 2.44 M (4ft x 8 ft): https://www.diy.com/departments/birc...m/27596_BQ.prd When veneering large sheets, it's wise to veneer both sided of the wood or it might warp if only one side is veneered and sealed, but that's irrelevant for projects such as this one. The following pics might be of interest. Pic 1: suggested method of jointing a ply box to be veneered. Pic 2: Internal view of a (B&Q construction grade) plywood box lidded storage box for DVDs veneered in rift oak veneer (using hid glue) made for my (adult) son who asked for it to be stained Jacobean oak, finished with U-Pol gloss auto lacquer. Pic 3: Outside view before staining and finishing. Pic 4: Box stained and finished. Pic 5: Shows the difference between construction grade ply and 'proper' ply. For some time now, I use U-Pol 'Clearcoat' professional car lacquer for finishing. It's used extensively in the motor trade for refinishing small repairs and by professional and amateur woodturners. Two 500mL cans are typically £12 post free on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-U-Pol....c100677.m4598 Just my own suggestions, for what it's worth, but I hope it's of help and interest. Good luck in your endeavours.
__________________
David. BVWS Member. G-QRP Club member 1339. |
8th Oct 2020, 10:29 am | #31 | ||
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Quote:
https://www.theworks.co.uk/c/art-and...crafts?tsz=100 |
||
8th Oct 2020, 11:19 am | #32 | |
Heptode
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Yarm, North Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 535
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Quote:
Colin |
|
8th Oct 2020, 4:49 pm | #33 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oxfordshire, UK.
Posts: 1,906
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
This one has shown up my naivety when it comes to woodwork. I really did think a few quick cuts would do it I think I will find some MDF and experiment first - any bodged pieces will get used in other things so there won't be any waste. I'm aware of the pre-made boxes and they are attractive, but I feel the need to have a go at making something from scratch. Am I misguided? We will find out!
__________________
Is it live, or is it... no, it's live actually... |
8th Oct 2020, 5:05 pm | #34 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 27,788
|
Re: Wood to make small case
A lot depends on how much of a perfectionist you are. You can make quite an attractive case just by gluing bits of wood together, sanding down the surfaces and wiping down with Danish oil. It doesn't need to be particularly strong.
|
8th Oct 2020, 7:13 pm | #35 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oxfordshire, UK.
Posts: 1,906
|
Re: Wood to make small case
I like to do a simple job well as that is the extent of my talent. There is an approach described above which involves screws and glue followed by dowels. I may try that.
Of course I need to accommodate the controls and sockets so I will need to plan it all out.
__________________
Is it live, or is it... no, it's live actually... |
8th Oct 2020, 8:13 pm | #36 |
Pentode
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Immingham, North East Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 174
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Hello,
Here are a few pics of home made plinth. |
8th Oct 2020, 11:12 pm | #37 |
Nonode
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 2,181
|
Re: Wood to make small case
For my light box project, I went to my local wood yard. Out of a half sheet of 13mm MDF, I got 2 sets of 2( 34x14cm+ 22x14) + 34x19.5 cm and a large sheet of MDF for further use. All cut to size. Cost =£15. One set made the frame for my light box. The other made a store for the chemicals for developing and etching the boards. I used drywall screws to fix the sides together. Drill a plot hole and then countersink . Apply no more nails to the sides screw and let dry. Fill the screw heads flush with filler, let dry and I painted mine with a cheap spray paint from a hardware shop.
Another source of wood cutting is B & Q larger stores. If you prefer, there's the option of dowelling. For best results you will need a dowel jig, comprising of a set of dowel markers and a jig. First you use the jig to dril a hole into the end grain of the wood/contiboard. Then you place a dowel marker into the hole. Align the wood and tap. where the marker marks a centre hole in the end grain, to let you drill a hole. I prefer the screw and no more nails approach. Last edited by Oldcodger; 8th Oct 2020 at 11:26 pm. |
9th Oct 2020, 9:48 am | #38 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,737
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Quote:
If you look at the module from the side, you'll see that the PCB protrudes slightly in front of the bushes of the four control shafts so you need to find a means of supporting the controls. Also, the control shafts are splined and protrude 25mm beyond the mounting bushes, and being splined, you can't just lop say 12mm off the shafts or the splined part will be removed. If the PCB isn't set back, the control shafts will protrude too far in front of the front panel and the knobs will have a gap behind them. Hence, some ingenuity is called for to mount the module. Not so complicated at the rear - just a pics of aluminium bent at right angles to form a panel for the power, input, and speaker sockets. Others will have found their own solution to these issues, but for what it's worth, I've attached a few pics of how I mounted mine. That was back in 2015, then other projects took over and as so often happens, because of my lifelong propensity to start one thing (or more!) before I've finished another, the project stalled, so I must get back to it and make a case/cabinet/box of whatever we may wish to call it. I've got the wood & veneer, so maybe I'll allow myself to be side-tracked from other projects back onto this one. Some pics attached of where I got to: 1) LH side view showing protruding PCB, the splined shafts and the aluminium mounting bracket I made. 2) Rear panel showing L to R: Power input, stereo input, mono input, speaker sockets. 3) Angled front view showing mounting tabs for control shafts and to support the PCB at the front. 4) Front panel view. 5) A doodled front panel to gauge the dimensions needed for the box and front/rear panels. Hope that might help a bit.
__________________
David. BVWS Member. G-QRP Club member 1339. |
|
9th Oct 2020, 11:00 am | #39 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Heckmondwike, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 9,637
|
Re: Making a wooden project case
As this wanted thread had morphed into a constructional one it can now be found in Cabinets and Chassis.
|
9th Oct 2020, 5:06 pm | #40 | |
Heptode
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 986
|
Re: Wood to make small case
Quote:
I find it easier to build the project into a die cast box, which can then be accommodated into a wooden enclosure. This has two advantages to my mind. It is generally easier to mount controls into a thin wall chassis, rather than to try and mount them into the thicker walls of a timber box. Also, the screening of the metal enclosure will benefit the overall performance of ( in your case) the amplifier. The shafts from the controls can then be left long enough for them to protrude though your wood enclosure. Pictured is a small pre amp I made a few years ago from offcuts of oak flooring that I scavenged. I simply used butt joints, dowelled and glued. Good luck . SimonT.
__________________
The honesty of imperfection.......... |
|