Repairing woodworm holes - Page 2 - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

SurreyNick · 20th Jul 2014, 4:06 pm

If you want to get as close to an invisible and professional finish as possible then:

1. Chemically treat the whole affected area as directed by the manufacturer.
2. Chemically treat each woodworm hole by injecting each hole using a syringe. Do at least two applications several days apart, then let dry thoroughly.
3. Using a syringe inject PVA wood glue deep into each hole until it comes out at the surface. Wipe the excess away and leave to dry in a warm place for several weeks. Having dried, the glue injected into each hole should have shrunk below the original surface. Gently pick out any holes which haven't shrunk back by a couple of mm.
4. Using wood of the same species or at least the same colour generate sufficient quantity of sawdust to top off each woodworm hole. The sawdust needs to be fine. The sort of grade you get from sawing wood.
5. Using pearl glue, mix the sawdust with a small quantity of melted glue to create a thick paste - a bit like a curry paste. Use as much sawdust as you can. It's not easy to do this and you have to work swiftly as the glue hardens as it is thickened and cools. Use the paste to back-fill the woodworm holes, but make sure it stands slightly proud. Using a small palette knife this should happen of its own accord.
6. Once completely dry gently smooth down with the finest grade wet and dry paper (at least 400 grade)

It's a lot of work but if you have a cabinet that warrants the effort this will give you as good a permanent result as you can get.

It's also worth noting that woodworm (the most common worm being the larvae of the common furniture beetle) prefers; damp rather than dry wood; softwoods rather than hardwoods; and, unfinished (bare) rather than finished (varnished, polished etc.) woods.

All this is bad news for vintage radio restorers as the beetles will head for and infest plywood more than any other timber. If you are restoring a veneered plywood cabinet and are worried about woodworm don't forget to apply a finish to the inside of the cabinet (a matt varnish is ideal) and store all cabinets in a dry environment. An unheated workshop, such as a shed and/or garage, really isn't an ideal environment for storing wood cabinets. If you have no option I would advise regular checks and for long-term storage put the radio in a sealable/zippable plastic cover. The sort one puts clothes in for storage (not for hanging) and to protect from moths is ideal. They are readily available and cheap from Ikea.

Nick

saxmaniac · 22nd Jul 2014, 6:56 am

I know this is not the sales section, but I have a small quantity of dark brown wax sticks ideal for this. I will give one FOC to anyone who wants to send me a SAE or pref a small jiffy bag.

PM me and I will send my address.

emeritus · 30th Jul 2014, 7:14 pm

Just a note for anyone who likes to use solvent-based Cuprinol 5 star protection for treating woodworm. Sale of this product will be prohibited from 1st August, so you would need to lay in a supply by 31st July. I just found this out, and on visiting my local Dulux trade centre, discovered that they had recently been instructed to send any remaining stock to a single local branch pending withdrawal. They rang the branch and confirmed that they did still have some for purchase, so I was able to lay in a supply at less than half the normal price.

20th Jul 2014, 4:06 pm	#21
SurreyNick Heptode Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Wigton, Cumbria, UK. Posts: 728	Re: Repairing woodworm holes If you want to get as close to an invisible and professional finish as possible then: 1. Chemically treat the whole affected area as directed by the manufacturer. 2. Chemically treat each woodworm hole by injecting each hole using a syringe. Do at least two applications several days apart, then let dry thoroughly. 3. Using a syringe inject PVA wood glue deep into each hole until it comes out at the surface. Wipe the excess away and leave to dry in a warm place for several weeks. Having dried, the glue injected into each hole should have shrunk below the original surface. Gently pick out any holes which haven't shrunk back by a couple of mm. 4. Using wood of the same species or at least the same colour generate sufficient quantity of sawdust to top off each woodworm hole. The sawdust needs to be fine. The sort of grade you get from sawing wood. 5. Using pearl glue, mix the sawdust with a small quantity of melted glue to create a thick paste - a bit like a curry paste. Use as much sawdust as you can. It's not easy to do this and you have to work swiftly as the glue hardens as it is thickened and cools. Use the paste to back-fill the woodworm holes, but make sure it stands slightly proud. Using a small palette knife this should happen of its own accord. 6. Once completely dry gently smooth down with the finest grade wet and dry paper (at least 400 grade) It's a lot of work but if you have a cabinet that warrants the effort this will give you as good a permanent result as you can get. It's also worth noting that woodworm (the most common worm being the larvae of the common furniture beetle) prefers; damp rather than dry wood; softwoods rather than hardwoods; and, unfinished (bare) rather than finished (varnished, polished etc.) woods. All this is bad news for vintage radio restorers as the beetles will head for and infest plywood more than any other timber. If you are restoring a veneered plywood cabinet and are worried about woodworm don't forget to apply a finish to the inside of the cabinet (a matt varnish is ideal) and store all cabinets in a dry environment. An unheated workshop, such as a shed and/or garage, really isn't an ideal environment for storing wood cabinets. If you have no option I would advise regular checks and for long-term storage put the radio in a sealable/zippable plastic cover. The sort one puts clothes in for storage (not for hanging) and to protect from moths is ideal. They are readily available and cheap from Ikea. Nick

22nd Jul 2014, 6:56 am	#22
saxmaniac Heptode Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 618	Re: Repairing woodworm holes I know this is not the sales section, but I have a small quantity of dark brown wax sticks ideal for this. I will give one FOC to anyone who wants to send me a SAE or pref a small jiffy bag. PM me and I will send my address. Last edited by AC/HL; 22nd Jul 2014 at 11:59 am. Reason: PS merged

30th Jul 2014, 7:14 pm	#23
emeritus Dekatron Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Brentwood, Essex, UK. Posts: 5,339	Re: Repairing woodworm holes Just a note for anyone who likes to use solvent-based Cuprinol 5 star protection for treating woodworm. Sale of this product will be prohibited from 1st August, so you would need to lay in a supply by 31st July. I just found this out, and on visiting my local Dulux trade centre, discovered that they had recently been instructed to send any remaining stock to a single local branch pending withdrawal. They rang the branch and confirmed that they did still have some for purchase, so I was able to lay in a supply at less than half the normal price.