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Old 16th Apr 2014, 10:34 am   #1
Daventry 5XX
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Default Repairing woodworm holes

Hi All,

Just bought a 1930's radio with quite bad woodworm damage.

I think this is historic rather than recent, what's the best way to repair the damage?

Apologies if this has been covered before, but all I can find is advice on how to kill the little blighters rather than repairing the damage.

Alan
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 10:42 am   #2
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

I also have the same problem. The set has good 'varnish' and it would be a shame to strip it.

I have read that if you can't get a filler of the right colour and shade to match the wood, it is better to use a darker filler than a lighter one.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:30 pm   #3
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

I think if I wanted to keep the original finish I'd drip molten furniture repair wax into them. The wax has it's own sheen and can be trimmed with a blade and "sanded" down with thick paper or card without damaging the finish that's already there.

Whatever you fill them with it's going to be noticeable to some extent though.

David
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:35 pm   #4
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

How exactly do you do that, David? I've never had much luck.

Nick.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:41 pm   #5
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

I have used the molten wax its good but would like to add, wait say a day or two before removing the excess as it continues to shrink for a long time after cooling. A raised mark is less noticeable than a sunken surface.

John.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:48 pm   #6
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

The abundant flight holes are usually indicative of plywood panel with a thinly veneered surface. The larva will happily gobble through a thin veneer (but not so a thick dry solid timber) and then live off the Scotch glue holding the ply together before emerging... somewhere some time later.

As David says, it is almost impossible to make the plugged flight holes 'disappear', but the major problem is the structural integrity of the plywood hidden behind the good and damaged veneer - it'll be like a dry sponge. Depending on the extent of damage it may be more prudent to replace or patch the panel.

The problem with the furniture beetle egg is that it can remain dormant for many year!

As to a darker shade of filler, that is generally the correct practice - but not too dark! Also it is better to make an irregular patch/fill than a uniform one - that is how camouflage works in nature!

Last edited by brenellic2000; 16th Apr 2014 at 12:54 pm. Reason: spelink
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:50 pm   #7
Daventry 5XX
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Where can I get some of this molten furniture repair wax from?

Alan
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:50 pm   #8
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Nick, I made an extruder like a syringe out of steel tube with many holes in the end, with the help of a vice made strings of wax like lengths of solder. I then wrap 18 gauge copper wire around the bit of my solder iron. The rest is easy. I hope I have said enough for you to get the Idea.

John.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 12:56 pm   #9
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Alan; Coloured wax is widely available, e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...at=0&_from=R40

John; Thank you! Just to clarify, you make strings of wax and use a warm piece of copper wire to melt a little bit into each hole?

Nick
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 1:24 pm   #10
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

According to one of my text books, although the larval stage of the furniture beetle is normally 2 years, the ply used in the 1930's is so nourishing that it is normally completed in a year. I have sucessfully used "Rentokil" woodworm fluid to treat plywood in furniture by laying the surface to be treated horizontal so the affected area could be flooded to ensure thorough penetration into the galleries. I didn't attempt repair of the flight holes as the area affected was at the rear and not normally visible, but simply polished with traditional beeswax polish and periodically checked for any signs of new activity. From memory, they normally emerge in June.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 3:11 pm   #11
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Nick, You've got it, wrap the bit with wire and leave 25mm poking out to melt the wax. Poke the wax into the hole and apply the heated wire down the hole 1 or 2mm the heat will travel a lot further. Deep holes may need a second application as the wax will shrink a lot. I use to treat the wood a few weeks before and allow the insecticide to dry completely.

John.
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 6:54 pm   #12
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Woodworm can be chewing your set for upto 10 years before it turns into an adult and flys off . This happened to me with a Pye hybrid Tv , I would recommend using a pest control for woodworm such as the Rentokil stuff in a tin . kills them dead and leaves your set with no additional damage .
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Old 16th Apr 2014, 7:16 pm   #13
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

I contacted a National Trust site which was being renovated and was advised to put the wood in a deep freeze for a few weeks. This seemed to work.

I have some timber with some worm, I placed it on top of s storage heater to get it quite warm. A few days seemed to do the job. I am not keen on using insecticide on timber which I am going to work.
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Old 4th Jun 2014, 10:13 pm   #14
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

It is possible to kill the larvae by freezing, but bear in mind the larvae is able to survive at temperatures well below freezing point in the wild and, given enough time, the larvae are able to adapt to very cold conditions indeed.

In order to kill them with certainty it is necessary to freeze an object to a deep freeze (-20°C) as quickly as possible. Repeated cycles of quickly freezing, thawing AND raising the temperature to above +50°C is much more effective in killing the larvae. In fact the heat cycle, (heating to above +50°C) is much more effective than freezing. The larvae rarely survive extended exposure to temperatures above 30°C

HOWEVER, as with all heat treatments, it is vitally important to consider the effect of the variation in temperature and the consequent variations in humidity on fragile veneer and vulnerable woodwork. You could easily do irreparable damage. You may dislike chemical treatments but in preserving your valuable woodwork they are generally the best solution.
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Old 7th Jul 2014, 2:10 pm   #15
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Hi. I have used some woodworm killer made by Cuprinol, illustrated as the complete wood treatment on the can. I filled the holes with plastic wood that you can get from Wilkos.
Mike
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Old 7th Jul 2014, 5:04 pm   #16
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

I have had a few beetle problems over the years, including a complete re-flooring of a 1st floor flat.
The little blighters are difficult to kill. As suggested the preparatory liquid killer does what it says on the tin. Repeated dosing is however essential, it does little damage to most surface finishes but as it is spirit based it is as well to test first.
I have had success filling the flight holes with candle wax stained with the nearest shade darker wood stain. It is better to melt the wax before adding the stain but don't get it too hot!
All my woody radios when in storage have old fashioned moth balls made from naphthalene inside and are bagged in plastic after wrapping in acid proof tissue paper. That will deter a re-infestation and ensure any emerging beetle die before they can mate and lay eggs.
The problem now is buying proper moth balls, they are banned in Europe! Please read up on say Wikipedia about the harmful effects before you use.
My last purchase came via ebay from Turkey this year, but I think that they are no longer allowed to sell them. You could always buy them when on holiday abroad, if you can stand the smell coming home!

Boater Sam.
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Old 7th Jul 2014, 6:37 pm   #17
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

On the (fortunately few) occasions that I have had to treat woodworm and fill the holes, I have used Cuprinol followed by furniture repair wax. I use the wax cold, shaving off small slices then pressing it into the hole with an old knitting needle. I finish off by rubbing the wax across the surface and polishing down level.

I detest the thought that these little beasts may be lurking, waiting to appear years later and spread throughout a collection, and I therefore take special care over new introductions to the collection. I was once given several sets by an acquaintance; they looked OK from the outside at a quick glance, but I ended up scrapping three of them as the worm holes were too numerous to count, and all only visible from the inside! I now remove the chassis, and scrutinise the inside of the cabinet as thoroughly as the outside, as soon as I acquire a 'new' set.

As my cherished workshop is of all-wood construction, I am now limiting my collection of woodies in favour of sets with cabinets made of Bakelite or other pest-resistant materials. Fortunately, the Bakelite worm has not had sufficient time to evolve. I check the few woodies I do own every few months.
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Old 8th Jul 2014, 7:45 pm   #18
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Has anyone tried 'stainable' polyester wood filler..maybe on stripped bare wood cabinets?
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Old 12th Jul 2014, 8:37 am   #19
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Ideal tool for injecting Rentokil ,or similar liquid such as Cuprinol is a hypodermic syringe. More chance of forcing the liquid further down the flight holes.
Mike.
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Old 12th Jul 2014, 9:14 am   #20
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Default Re: Repairing woodworm holes

Before any filling takes place, I always treat the flight holes twice before bagging up the cabinet for a few months and checking for any new activity.

I am very cautious of making sure there is no activity before filling the holes. I have found furniture crayons work well on flight holes, as these come in many shades, it makes them almost disappear.

Mark
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