Glue for speaker cloth

[Michael Maurice]

I'm restoring a Philips radiogram and need to replace the speaker cloth.

i have some suitable material, but am wondering which type of glue to use.

In the past, I've used Evo-Stik, impact adhesive after stapling the cloth to the wood.

I'm wondering though if there is a better glue and a better method.

[joebog1]

If its "proper " speaker cloth, it should shrink with applied heat from a hairdryer or heatgun.
Otherwise my method has been to stretch it evenly over the baffle and staple it generously all around.
A paper stapler wont do. I have several different industrial staplers, including an air driven apholstery "tacker " .
Staples are available in a thousand formats these days, and dont be afraid of the Chinese stainless steel staples. So far my experience with them has been excellent.

Joe

If I had to glue it on, I would be using water based acrylic contact glue.

[Jan Zodiac]

I always used staples and wood glue. And that goes for all the different types of cloth I have been using.

Regards,

Jan

[agardiner]

I have tried various glues in the past, but my go-to one now is 'Mod Podge'. This is a multi-purpose craft glue and I find it easier to use, and it doesn't tend to leak through the cloth. Available online of course but also from places like Hobbycraft and The Works.

[McMurdo]

if it's a simple grille/board behind then I spray it with carpet aerosol glue, adding the cloth from the top and gently stretching it over and then on so the weave is level. If the grille is a sort of fret then in the past I have taken evostick (from a can) and thinned it down with a xylene or toluene-type solvent, then brushed it on sparingly with an old paint brush, then added the cloth that way once it's gone tacky.

I haven't used PVA wood glue but I know people who swear by it.

[60136 Alcazar]

Pre-WW2 they used the same glue as the wood - hot hide glue.
I use Titebond hide glue around, but well clear of, the speaker grille aperture; the glue allows you to re-tension after application as it allows slip, taking a day or so to set properly. It may however bleed through, particularly on light coloured materials (hence applied well away from visible areas). It is a reversible adhesive and can be released with heat or hot water.
Of course, sub-baffle boards are easiest as you can pre-tension the fabric on an external frame and 'drop' the baffle in, or drop the frame onto the baffle, thus ensuring the patterning is correctly orientated.

[Iangebbie]

One other tip (I have used) is before fitting the cloth apply some Ironing spray (Available at most big stores) then iron before fitting, this helps flatten the cloth and make it a lot easier to fit, it also stops you having to stretch the material, Cheers Ian G