Perdio Portarama MKII - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Hunts smoothing bomb · 6th Dec 2011, 5:12 pm

Hi all,

I was lucky enough to win one of these sets in the auction at RWB, I have powered the set from 12v and has a very bright tube

Frame scan is low (prob due to leaky caps)

No IF activity it seems as when the Aurora is connected I can't get anything on screen or on sound.

What are the 3 buttons for on the front?

The set only works when the 'B' button is pressed.

Thanks

neil29 · 6th Dec 2011, 5:19 pm

Hi Lee. I bought one of these a while back and it performs much like your set. The buttons are O for off, M for mains and B for battery. It finally occurred to me after about 20 years what they did!

Cheers,
Neil.

Hunts smoothing bomb · 7th Dec 2011, 1:40 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by neil29

The buttons are O for off, M for mains and B for battery. It finally occurred to me after about 20 years what they did!

Cheers,
Neil.

Oh yes...... Of course!

Cheers

Duke_Nukem · 7th Dec 2011, 10:51 pm

Quote:

I have powered the set from 12v and has a very bright tube

Just a thought, but have you checked the heater volts are correct ?

Have in the back of my mind a possible fault condition which can apply too many volts to the heater but I may be confusing the Perdio with the Philips TVette??

TTFN,
Jon

murphyv310 · 7th Dec 2011, 11:07 pm

Hi.
The tubes in these sets are not the unreliable ones like in the T-Vette. Remember these sets are full of AF*** transistors and are prone to whiskering.
These sets work well when OK but a lot have been twiddled to try and reduce noticeable buzz that is very common on this chassis.

Hunts smoothing bomb · 8th Dec 2011, 2:36 pm

Hi,
Thanks for all the replies and info chaps

I didn't realise it was fitted with the dreaded AF11x's.

It will give me some tinkering to do in the workshop over the festive period I guess.

Of course family comes first..... Always!

Cheers

Hybrid tellies · 14th Dec 2011, 12:36 am

Have never seen oner of these sets but have heard they were quite good. If the raster is overbright I would check the A1 voltage for being to high and then check the cathode and grid voltages.

Old Grump · 31st Dec 2011, 5:21 pm

I am at present restoring 2 of these sets, I remember servicing them in the early 1970's and somewhere have a "stock Fault" list from the 1960's that was in my (original Perdio) manual but seems to have gone walkabout, a trip to the loft is now planned!

The tube heater is fed directly from the 11.6 volt regulated supply so make sure the regulator is working correctly to preserve the heater!!, one of my sets is correct at 11.6 at switch on but rises to over 13v in the first few minutes so I am being very careful until I nail the fault.

The tubes do seem to have stood the test of time well both having nice crisp sharp bright pictures which may indicate these tubes are survivors, one of mine I acquired in about 1970 and it had not been powered in over 30 years until a week ago the other was bought at a boot fair for £2, 15 or so years ago for parts but is now to be restored. Remove fuses F3 and F4 and fit a 10ohm 10w resistor between the junction of the fuses and chassis as a dummy load to check out the power supply thoroughly before refitting the fuses, the regulated supply should be 11.6v across the dummy load.

I am new to the forum but will list any interesting faults I may come across that could help others with these sets as I find them.

6th Dec 2011, 5:12 pm	#1
Hunts smoothing bomb Octode Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 1,407	Perdio Portarama MKII Hi all, I was lucky enough to win one of these sets in the auction at RWB, I have powered the set from 12v and has a very bright tube Frame scan is low (prob due to leaky caps) No IF activity it seems as when the Aurora is connected I can't get anything on screen or on sound. What are the 3 buttons for on the front? The set only works when the 'B' button is pressed. Thanks __________________ Lee

6th Dec 2011, 5:19 pm	#2
neil29 Heptode Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Newport, Gwent, UK. Posts: 962	Re: Perdio Portarama MKII Hi Lee. I bought one of these a while back and it performs much like your set. The buttons are O for off, M for mains and B for battery. It finally occurred to me after about 20 years what they did! Cheers, Neil.

7th Dec 2011, 11:07 pm	#5
murphyv310 Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, UK. Posts: 5,422	Re: Perdio Portarama MKII Hi. The tubes in these sets are not the unreliable ones like in the T-Vette. Remember these sets are full of AF*** transistors and are prone to whiskering. These sets work well when OK but a lot have been twiddled to try and reduce noticeable buzz that is very common on this chassis. __________________ Cheers, Trevor. MM0KJJ. RSGB, GQRP, WACRAL, K&LARC. Member

8th Dec 2011, 2:36 pm	#6
Hunts smoothing bomb Octode Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 1,407	Re: Perdio Portarama MKII Hi, Thanks for all the replies and info chaps I didn't realise it was fitted with the dreaded AF11x's. It will give me some tinkering to do in the workshop over the festive period I guess. Of course family comes first..... Always! Cheers __________________ Lee

14th Dec 2011, 12:36 am	#7
Hybrid tellies Nonode Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: 1966-1976 Coverack in Cornwall and Helston Cornwall. 1976-present Bristol/Bath area. Posts: 2,965	Re: Perdio Portarama MKII Have never seen oner of these sets but have heard they were quite good. If the raster is overbright I would check the A1 voltage for being to high and then check the cathode and grid voltages. __________________ Simon BVWS member

31st Dec 2011, 5:21 pm	#8
Old Grump Diode Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Hawick, Scottish Borders, UK. Posts: 4	Re: Perdio Portarama MKII I am at present restoring 2 of these sets, I remember servicing them in the early 1970's and somewhere have a "stock Fault" list from the 1960's that was in my (original Perdio) manual but seems to have gone walkabout, a trip to the loft is now planned! The tube heater is fed directly from the 11.6 volt regulated supply so make sure the regulator is working correctly to preserve the heater!!, one of my sets is correct at 11.6 at switch on but rises to over 13v in the first few minutes so I am being very careful until I nail the fault. The tubes do seem to have stood the test of time well both having nice crisp sharp bright pictures which may indicate these tubes are survivors, one of mine I acquired in about 1970 and it had not been powered in over 30 years until a week ago the other was bought at a boot fair for £2, 15 or so years ago for parts but is now to be restored. Remove fuses F3 and F4 and fit a 10ohm 10w resistor between the junction of the fuses and chassis as a dummy load to check out the power supply thoroughly before refitting the fuses, the regulated supply should be 11.6v across the dummy load. I am new to the forum but will list any interesting faults I may come across that could help others with these sets as I find them.