What set next. - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Line whistle · 20th Nov 2008, 5:33 pm

Hi, I'm now hinking about what TV to get going next. I have two hear with me that I haven't touched, a Murphy V849 Dual std and a KB Royal Star. The KB doesn't really appeal to me as a working set. Not too sure about the Murphy. I Have the rest of the collection at my dads house. Many of the later sets did work when last used about 13 years ago some with faults. All will need recommissioning. The GEC BT303 is too much like the Goden Glide. The sobell has a broken tube. The early stuff I'm not really interested in so I think it has to be either the HMV 1910 ( same chassis as the Golden Glide ) the Pye V210/A or the 19" Baird convertable for which at present I can't remember the model number. If I remember corectly the Pye was working quite well but the Baird was suffering with hum bars. Quite possibly the Baird.....or the Pye!!!
Cheers, Des.

Steve_P · 20th Nov 2008, 5:35 pm

The Murphy may have lopt trouble. Leave it for now.

Go for the Pye, then the Baird.

Cheers,

Steve P.

Heatercathodeshort · 20th Nov 2008, 7:12 pm

Back Steve up with the 849 lopt....The Royal Star is beyond redemption unless its the 110 degree model... I would start with the 1910 while the faults are still fresh in your mind, then the Pye V210A with motor tuner [Great set but you will need some more caps] and finally the GEC BT303, another nice set with very few if any nasties. Mind you I never pracise what I preach and would probably do the KB first. These sets will require many capacitor replacements, resistors are usually well out of tolerance and the LOPT can be a weak point and oh, the rear leg collapses into the cardboard cabinet.
Good luck with whatever you choose. John.

murphyv310 · 20th Nov 2008, 8:14 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_P

The Murphy may have lopt trouble. Leave it for now.

Cheers,

Steve P.

Hi.
I should have an 849 Lopt in stock if you need one.
Good picture on the V849 if its right.
Trevor

Tazman1966 · 20th Nov 2008, 8:17 pm

Hi Des.

Having had a look at the pictures of the choices on your website, I'd love to see that Pye V210A up and running. That'd be my next choice...but hey, what do I know

?

All the best,

pentode12 · 20th Nov 2008, 8:34 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heatercathodeshort

Back Steve up with the 849 lopt....The Royal Star is beyond redemption unless its the 110 degree model... I would start with the 1910 while the faults are still fresh in your mind, then the Pye V210A with motor tuner [Great set but you will need some more caps] and finally the GEC BT303, another nice set with very few if any nasties. Mind you I never pracise what I preach and would probably do the KB first. These sets will require many capacitor replacements, resistors are usually well out of tolerance and the LOPT can be a weak point and oh, the rear leg collapses into the cardboard cabinet.
Good luck with whatever you choose. John.

Hi,
I'm in the middle of a KB Royal star restoration which is comming on as time allows.The set is up and running after a recap and some work on the line output stage.Still need to sort an odd IF / sync fault.This is the 110 degree version.Tube seems ok.Were these sets bad news in thier day as they were a bit before my time (just).I quite like the look of these portables.
Beauty in the eye of the beholder I guess.lol

Andy.

Heatercathodeshort · 20th Nov 2008, 9:03 pm

Hello Andy,
I'm not sure which version Des is thinking of restoring. The PVP20 was the first version and suffered from leaky capacitors and general unsteady timebases. This was due to the crazy design of the bomb shaped cabinet concentrating the heat rather than letting it escape. To be fair using modern components unavailable when the set was designed in 1957/58, would no doubt calm a lot of the problems. Make sure the panels are well secured to the chassis. The copper earth strip around the edge of the panels is earthed via the securing screws. [nasty] Its a long time ago but I seem to remember a problem here and fitting extra earth straps. The 110 degree version sold in much smaller quantities and was a much better set. The model number was QVP20. Lets hope you have this version Des as it will be easier to deal with. I have a few notes on the Pye V210A and the GEC so whatever you decide to start it will not be too intimidating...
Regards, John.

Line whistle · 20th Nov 2008, 10:54 pm

Hi, Thanks for your replies with advice. The Pye V210/A was the first vintage tv i bought back in 1990. It came from a shop in Norwich that sold some film memorabilia and the odd vintage radio. Some work has alredy been done on this set. Most if not all the frame timebase caps changed. Silicon rectifier in place of original. EHT rectifier, Line Output and a tuner valve replaced. The set worked well although when switching on there was a sort of screaching sound from the speaker which varied in pitch making a little tune !!! It lasts about ten seconds. My grandparents had the non motorised version from new until around 1972.
I had a quick look at the Murphy. THe on/ff voume knob doesn't have a positive click and can be turned and turned. Its o/c and shorting the connections gives continuity to the live and neutral leads. The system swich has been dis connected.
I think the PYe,
Cheers, Des.

20th Nov 2008, 5:33 pm	#1
Line whistle Hexode Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bedfordshire, UK. Posts: 341	What set next. Hi, I'm now hinking about what TV to get going next. I have two hear with me that I haven't touched, a Murphy V849 Dual std and a KB Royal Star. The KB doesn't really appeal to me as a working set. Not too sure about the Murphy. I Have the rest of the collection at my dads house. Many of the later sets did work when last used about 13 years ago some with faults. All will need recommissioning. The GEC BT303 is too much like the Goden Glide. The sobell has a broken tube. The early stuff I'm not really interested in so I think it has to be either the HMV 1910 ( same chassis as the Golden Glide ) the Pye V210/A or the 19" Baird convertable for which at present I can't remember the model number. If I remember corectly the Pye was working quite well but the Baird was suffering with hum bars. Quite possibly the Baird.....or the Pye!!! Cheers, Des. __________________ www.freewebs.com/405tv

20th Nov 2008, 5:35 pm	#2
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: What set next. The Murphy may have lopt trouble. Leave it for now. Go for the Pye, then the Baird. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

20th Nov 2008, 7:12 pm	#3
Heatercathodeshort Dekatron Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING. Posts: 9,147	Re: What set next. Back Steve up with the 849 lopt....The Royal Star is beyond redemption unless its the 110 degree model... I would start with the 1910 while the faults are still fresh in your mind, then the Pye V210A with motor tuner [Great set but you will need some more caps] and finally the GEC BT303, another nice set with very few if any nasties. Mind you I never pracise what I preach and would probably do the KB first. These sets will require many capacitor replacements, resistors are usually well out of tolerance and the LOPT can be a weak point and oh, the rear leg collapses into the cardboard cabinet. Good luck with whatever you choose. John.

20th Nov 2008, 8:17 pm	#5
Tazman1966 Nonode Join Date: May 2006 Location: St Albans, Herts, UK. Posts: 2,193	Re: What set next. Hi Des. Having had a look at the pictures of the choices on your website, I'd love to see that Pye V210A up and running. That'd be my next choice...but hey, what do I know? All the best, __________________ All the very best, Tas

20th Nov 2008, 9:03 pm	#7
Heatercathodeshort Dekatron Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING. Posts: 9,147	Re: What set next. Hello Andy, I'm not sure which version Des is thinking of restoring. The PVP20 was the first version and suffered from leaky capacitors and general unsteady timebases. This was due to the crazy design of the bomb shaped cabinet concentrating the heat rather than letting it escape. To be fair using modern components unavailable when the set was designed in 1957/58, would no doubt calm a lot of the problems. Make sure the panels are well secured to the chassis. The copper earth strip around the edge of the panels is earthed via the securing screws. [nasty] Its a long time ago but I seem to remember a problem here and fitting extra earth straps. The 110 degree version sold in much smaller quantities and was a much better set. The model number was QVP20. Lets hope you have this version Des as it will be easier to deal with. I have a few notes on the Pye V210A and the GEC so whatever you decide to start it will not be too intimidating... Regards, John.

20th Nov 2008, 10:54 pm	#8
Line whistle Hexode Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bedfordshire, UK. Posts: 341	Re: What set next. Hi, Thanks for your replies with advice. The Pye V210/A was the first vintage tv i bought back in 1990. It came from a shop in Norwich that sold some film memorabilia and the odd vintage radio. Some work has alredy been done on this set. Most if not all the frame timebase caps changed. Silicon rectifier in place of original. EHT rectifier, Line Output and a tuner valve replaced. The set worked well although when switching on there was a sort of screaching sound from the speaker which varied in pitch making a little tune !!! It lasts about ten seconds. My grandparents had the non motorised version from new until around 1972. I had a quick look at the Murphy. THe on/ff voume knob doesn't have a positive click and can be turned and turned. Its o/c and shorting the connections gives continuity to the live and neutral leads. The system swich has been dis connected. I think the PYe, Cheers, Des. __________________ www.freewebs.com/405tv