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Hints, Tips and Solutions (Do NOT post requests for help here) If you have any useful general hints and tips for vintage technology repair and restoration, please share them here. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE!

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Old 25th Mar 2012, 1:26 pm   #1
Leon Crampin
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Default Using high melting point solder.

HMP solder is specified for some jobs such as dropper tags and, in my case, alternator slip ring connections where the mechanical strength of the HMP alloy is needed.

The problem is that an ordinary mains powered soldering iron will not readily melt HMP and a special bit for a "Weller" type of thermostatically controlled iron is not justified for the occasional job.

Variac to the rescue. Applying 270V to a 230V iron will give about a 38% increase in power - sufficient to do the job easily. A short term overload is unlikely to damage a soldering iron - I used a cheap one.

Leon.

Last edited by Leon Crampin; 25th Mar 2012 at 1:27 pm. Reason: word missing.
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Old 25th Mar 2012, 2:33 pm   #2
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

Backgound heat from a hot air gun also helps, HMP solder is not to be confused with lead free 'solder', which is a work of the Devil.
 
Old 25th Mar 2012, 3:46 pm   #3
XTC
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

A useful tip.

I bet HMP solder could also be used with a soldering gun type iron. The first time I used mine I wasn't used to the action, held down the trigger for too long, and the tip glowed red.

Soldering guns are a bit awkward and not ideal if you have a lot of soldering to do, but for the odd job like speaker tags or soldering to dropper tags, they're very convenient.

Pete.
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Old 25th Mar 2012, 9:29 pm   #4
Restorer79
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

I normally use a 100 watt soldering gun when making off dropper tags with HMP solder, does the job a treat.


Andy
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Old 25th Mar 2012, 10:52 pm   #5
Philips210
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

Hi

I use an inexpensive 60W iron when using HMP solder for ballast resistors.

When I came across a corroded dropper section (rusty tags) that was otherwise ok, I didn't think that the solder would adhere to the tags but after cleaning them, I was rewarded with a first class result. This solder sticks extremely well and may be useful in other areas of engineering where normal solder won't work. I did a repair on some glasses frames using HMP solder on one occasion.

The appearance of the joint always looks duller than normal 60/40 solder.

On the reel of Multicore HMP solder that I have, there is a warning about not overheating the solder. I wonder if that is concerning the hazard of the flux fumes.

Regards
Symon.
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Old 25th Mar 2012, 11:06 pm   #6
Nickthedentist
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philips210 View Post
I wonder if that is concerning the hazard of the flux fumes.
Or, burning the flux off prematurely, before it's done its job, maybe.

BTW, am I the only one to routinely use normal solder on radio droppers? I've never had any problems yet, but then my sets don't see as much use as they would have done when new.

Nick.
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Old 26th Mar 2012, 8:59 am   #7
Sideband
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Default Re: Using high melting point solder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickthedentist View Post
BTW, am I the only one to routinely use normal solder on radio droppers?
Hi Nick.

No probably not! I generally use normal solder and so far I've not had problems. However what I usually do is put the wire through the hole in the dropper tag and wrap it round at least once and crimp it tightly before applying solder thus making a good mechanical joint as well. My DAC90A gets quite a lot of use and the solder on the dropper is still good after three years.


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