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Success Stories If you have successfully repaired or restored a piece of equipment, why not write up what you did and post details here. Particularly if it was interesting, unusual or challenging. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE!

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Old 6th Mar 2020, 11:50 am   #1
ajgriff
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Default Telescopic Aerial Repair.

INTRODUCTION

I’ve previously shied away from aerial repair partly because I didn’t understand how telescopic aerials were constructed and partly due to fear of making a pig’s ear of the job. However, inspired by long time forum member Mike Phelan’s excellent posts on the subject, I decided to have a go.

The victim here is an aerial from a 1970s Grundig Party Boy 700. When I acquired the radio the aerial was hanging by a thread of brass at about half its extended length and typically the top cap was missing. The first photo shows the broken aerial after it had been removed from the set.

DISMANTLING

The first thing to realise is that an aerial like this can’t be dismantled or repaired by tackling the problem either in the vicinity of the break or from the top. It is essential to work from the bottom end. This is best explained by reference to the second photo showing the partially dismantled aerial. Each section is numbered from the bottom upwards. Sections 1 to 7 are tubes, whereas 8 is a solid rod with a thread on the end for the missing top cap. Note that each of the tubes from 2 through to 7 has its own unique pair of copper bearing shells (D).

To start the process the plug (A) in the base of section 1 must be removed by cutting through the crimp (swage) holding it in place. I used a hacksaw to do this before pulling the plug from the tube and removing the small piece of cut tubing (B) remaining around the groove. If present, it would also have been necessary to unscrew and remove the top cap.

Separating the sections is rather like turning the aerial inside out. With the plug out of the way, tube 2 can be pushed down through tube 1 so that it (1) can then be slid upwards and clear of the top of the aerial. This releases tube 2’s pair of bearing shells sited near its base. Next, tube 3 is pushed down though tube 2 and so on until the broken tube emerges in two parts (4 plus C).

BEARING SHELLS

It’s worth adding a few words here about the bearing shells and the job they perform. The shells are shaped to wrap around the tubes and have dimples which locate them in small holes near the lower ends of tubes 2 to 7. As well as functioning as bearings the shells are essential in enabling the telescopic operation of the aerial. As the aerial is concertinaed downwards the shell dimples prevent each section from passing beyond the lower end of the section below. Conversely when the aerial is pulled up the shells hit the turned in lip of the tube above so that the sections don’t separate.

Note that for the bottom tube (1) the plug (A) fulfils a similar function to the shells. This tube also has a flare at the top to prevent it from pushing down through the knuckle mechanism. Similarly the top rod (8) has it’s own flare or pin, rather than shells, to stop the rod from pulling out of the tube below. Also it can’t disappear into the tube below because of the top cap.

THE REPAIR

Conceptually this was the simplest part of the whole process. Two 1.4 mm holes had to be drilled opposite each other near to the base of the longest part of the broken tube (4). Remember that the holes accommodate the shell dimples and hold the shells in position once the aerial is reassembled. Because I didn’t dismantle sections 5 to 8 it was possible to use them to support the tube from the inside whilst the holes were drilled. The ragged end of the broken tube was cleaned up with a small file. The broken lower piece (C) was discarded. When clamping the tubes for drilling or filing I used an off cut of leather to protect the chrome finish.

REASSEMBLY

I hesitate to use the classic phrase ‘to reassemble reverse the dismantling procedure’ but that does apply here. Starting from the intact portion of the aerial tube 3 slides down so that tube 4 can be pushed up into 3 together with its respective bearing shells. Similarly tube 2 slides down so that 3 plus shells can be inserted from below. This continues until reassembly is complete and plug A can be reinserted into 1 and a new swage formed. I just crimped the tube with a flat bladed screwdriver tapped with a light hammer. The reassembled aerial can be viewed in the third photo.

TOP CAP

With the aerial back in one piece all that remained was to make and fit a new top cap. The original chromed cap would have been tapered downwards with a lip at the top. I opted for a simpler style similar to that used on the Elite Boy 600. The result can be seen in the fourth photo. The cap was made from a short length of 6.35 mm (1/4”) round brass bar with a 1.2 mm hole drilled to accept the uppermost aerial rod. It was fixed in place using two part epoxy and then sprayed gloss black. All straightforward enough but perfectly functional and quite acceptable aesthetically, to my eyes anyway. See fourth photo. When this shot was taken the radio itself was still in need of detailed cleaning.

If it ever becomes necessary to remove the cap a little heat will quickly melt the epoxy. Rest assured that I’ll be particularly careful to avoid future breakages but accidents do happen.

IMPLICATIONS

There are some implications arising from the repair. Clearly the shortening of tubes 1 & 4 reduces the overall length, although only by about 1.3 cm in total. Referring to the fifth photo, tube 5 no longer retracts fully (X) into tube 4 but this is not apparent when the sections are pushed right down (see inset). Also, tube 2 protrudes (Y) by a couple of millimetres when the aerial is fully closed due to the slight reduction in length of tube 1. In practice none of these things are at all noticeable.

TOOLS

The only significant tools used for the repair were a junior hacksaw, a couple of files, a small vice and a drill plus bits. I did use a drill press to make the three small holes required but I think, with due care, this could have been done using a hand held drill, powered or otherwise. The main point is that no specialist tools are needed in order to repair a telescopic aerial of conventional design.

CONCLUSION

I hope that this account might encourage others to take the plunge with a telescopic aerial repair. It really isn’t difficult and no special tools or knowledge are needed. Most aerials are constructed in a similar fashion with only minor variations. If the aerial concerned happens to have a knuckle joint, as with this example, it still shouldn’t be too much of a challenge to approach the repair by applying the principles described above.

A damaged aerial is all too common place in the world of vintage transistor radios and can spoil an otherwise good example. It’s so much more satisfactory to repair the original aerial rather than struggle to graft in a non-original replacement.

I have two other aerials in need of attention. Both have breaks but are missing the top few sections so replacement parts are needed. I’m going to try buying a couple of cheap aerials from China in the hope that some of the sections can be matched as the tolerances involved are tight to say the least.

Alan
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Old 6th Mar 2020, 1:14 pm   #2
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Thanks for this Alan. I always thought that once broken, that-was-that for telescopic aerials. Now we know better!

Peter
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Old 7th Mar 2020, 11:34 pm   #3
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Thank you for your positive comments Peter, much appreciated. Significant credit is due to Mike Phelan whose posts date from quite a few years ago now, including the 2007 ‘sticky’ in the Hints, Tips & Solutions section. However, many of them can still be found by performing a forum search using the term ‘Mike Phelan aerial’. Mike is a very experienced clock restorer and having never touched an intricate clock mechanism I just wanted to see whether or not I could successfully repair a telescopic aerial. In that vein I think it’s worth repeating the following quote from one of Mike’s closed posts describing an aerial repair:

"My reasons for posting this are twofold:

· Please do not scrap aerials when many of the parts are intact – there will not be an endless supply in the future.

· It’s not a difficult job to repair them and only requires hand tools which you will already have."

The only thing that might be a bit more novel about my repair is the replacement top cap. They are so often missing and its not easy to find replacements. I’ve made other caps in a similar way before. One of the more unusual examples is the replica plastic cover cap shown in the attached photos. These were fitted over the standard chromed caps of Roberts R505s by the British Wireless for the Blind Fund. The chromed cap itself was also missing when I acquired the radio and the set still falls into the ‘unfinished restorations’ category. I used two part epoxy as the moulding material. The bottom lip of the replica that is just visible in the last photo is formed from a couple of fibre plumbing washers super glued into position.

Alan
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Old 10th Mar 2020, 1:39 pm   #4
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

I’ve been feeling guilty about submitting a success story that only covers the repair of an aerial. In truth I didn’t think there was going to be much to say about the radio itself as initial testing just pointed towards the need for a squirt or two of switch cleaner plus a general wash and brush up. As with many things vintage radio I was quickly proved wrong when an intermittent fault reared its head.

Once the Party Boy 700 was reassembled with its repaired aerial, cleaned switches and less grubby case I tested it more thoroughly. Unfortunately it operated sporadically, either working fine or completely dead. It’s silent interludes seemed to coincide with switch bank operation although it would sometimes cut out without any physical intervention. I sprayed the switches again but there was no improvement. Thus far I’d been using the mains figure of eight connector to provide power so I switched to connecting a bench supply to the battery springs and the set worked flawlessly. Thoughts of a faulty transformer, rectifier or electrolytic sprang to mind as I reverted to mains power. As it happens I switched off the bench supply and left the radio’s on/off switch down. When I plugged in the figure of eight the set came to life but when I let go of the plug it died again. I tried another known good lead with the same outcome. Next the case was reopened and I had a prod around with a plastic chop stick (useful thing) with the set switched on. It was soon obvious that there was a poor connection somewhere in the vicinity of where the mains socket switch tags are soldered to the PCB. I should explain that the mains socket incorporates a pressure switch that disconnects the battery and connects the rectified low tension supply when the plug is inserted.

The set was designed so that most of the component parts could be mounted on a single PCB (first image) which was then secured to the case with just two diagonally positioned screws. As a consequence the mains socket sits in an unsupported corner of the PCB (see second image) and is not directly fixed to the case itself. This means that when the plug is inserted the corner of the PCB flexes. I examined the corner of the board using a jeweller’s loupe but couldn't see any obvious signs of a dry joint, crack in the tracks or damage to the PCB substrate so I re-flowed the solder in the vicinity of the mains socket and this cured the fault. Since the switch bank is mounted on the PCB it’s easy to see why operating the switches also caused the board to flex, thereby inducing the fault. This is such an obvious design flaw that there must be other Party Boy 700s around which were consigned to the loft, or wherever, because of this issue.

Now back to full health, it’s a decent example of its type. Sensitivity and selectivity are excellent. It also provides full VHF/FM coverage from 88 to 108MHz as well as being mains compatible without the need for an adapter. On the downside audio performance is only mediocre. The Party Boy 700 was launched in 1976 by which time I imagine European manufacturers were really struggling with the effects of high inflation plus increasing worldwide competition and Grundig was looking for ways to cut costs. One of the more obvious consequences is a rather inadequate circular speaker. The set’s predecessor the Party Boy 500, launched in 1973, featured an elliptical speaker and much more substantial case mouldings.

Overall I’m pleased with the set and it now resides in a relatively grease free corner of the kitchen from where it sings happily when required. I confess that I have something of a soft spot for 1970s Grundig Boy radios in their various guises.

Alan
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Old 10th Mar 2020, 3:47 pm   #5
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Well done! Looks fairly similar to my Elite Boy 500.

Out of interest, are you noticing any audio sibilance on FM? I 've read somewhere that sibilance is a "design feature" of some of these 1970s Grundigs. The sibilance on mine isn't appalling, just annoyingly intrusive - typically with some female speech.

Mike
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Old 10th Mar 2020, 6:47 pm   #6
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Thanks Mike, the Party Boy 700 turned out rather better than expected. Wasn't at all sure about tackling the aerial repair and itermittent faults can be very frustrating to track down.

With regard to your sibilance issue my Elite Boy 600 is probably a better comparator than the Party Boy 700 as it is practically the same as the Elite Boy 500. The differences between the 500 and 600 are really only cosmetic from what I can tell. I use the Elite Boy most days and can't say that I've noticed a particular issue as far as sibilance is concerned. Possibly there is a some hint of sibilance if the set is slightly off tune but that's easily corrected.

My experience of sibilance largely relates to setting up phono cartidges and I know what an irritating phenomenon it can be especially in relation to some female voices. However, I do sometimes wonder if the cause is actually more to do with studio set up rather than anything else. For example if the singer/presenter is too close to the microphone the effect is enhanced. In radio terms I also think it's more noticeable with higher quality sources which may explain why it's only apparent when your Elite Boy 500 is tuned to an FM signal.

I notice from past threads that you've looked in some detail at the issue from an alignment perspective but I wonder if you've made sure that the DC operating conditions of the audio output stage are spot on? Also, if you have a dual trace oscilloscope, injecting a 1kHz square wave into the audio amplifier and then following it through the signal path can sometimes highlight subtle faults like this one.

Alan
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Old 10th Mar 2020, 7:58 pm   #7
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Thanks Alan. I'm coming to same conclusion - that I ought to start looking at the af sections. I've pretty well excluded the ratio detector as culprit. I've wondered about the FM de-emphasis, but it's not easy to work out which are the components involved - it's complicated by the output impedance of the ratio detector and the input impedance of the af section. I do wonder if the various components at the af input are Grundig's way of implementing a fixed "loudness" correction, so I might have a look at these (the "tone" switch seems to be just a simple top-cut arrangement). So, when I get time, I might do a manual frequency sweep of the af section - I don't have an af sweep generator - only a switched one, but do have a dual 20 Mc/s scope.

Mind you, I haven't tried complete VHF IF alignment, having read that this very rarely gives problems on these sets.

But, the sibilance is really a fairly minor irritant - it's a very nice radio, with a battery life of several weeks despite almost constant use. Still, it would be good to fix it.

Mike

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Old 10th Mar 2020, 10:26 pm   #8
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Hi Alan,
Very interesting post .
Do you have any tips please on straightening kinks etc from sections without dismanlating the aerial ?
Cheers
Pete
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Old 10th Mar 2020, 11:35 pm   #9
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Have never had much luck with straightening ariel kinks I'm afraid Pete. Trouble is that the brass used for making the tubes is generally so thin that once a crease has formed it's almost impossible to remove without a split developing. This is why I think it's useful to know how to dismantle one of these so the offending tube can be shortened or replaced. With a methodical approach and an understanding of the construction principles it really is quite straightforward.

Alan
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Old 11th Mar 2020, 11:18 am   #10
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

I was also thinking bends in the aerial rather than kinks
I’ve tried rolling the section between two bits of wood with some success
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Old 12th Mar 2020, 7:32 pm   #11
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

What a brilliant practical dissertation on fixing damaged telescopic antennas! This is one of the truly great things about this forum - you learn something every day.

[Must admit, I've always sought a "near enough" replacement when faced with a damaged 'twig' but next time I may just try to repair rather than replace].

The quality of 'replacement' antennas sourced online is usually somewhat poorer than the original ones - so they're more likely to get damaged again. Being able to restore an original rather-robust antenna makes eminent sense, even if originality's not a big part of your personal mission.
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Old 13th Mar 2020, 11:16 pm   #12
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

I'm not sure whether or not the attachment will be of any interest but it's a PDF version of the original post modified into a style akin to a magazine article which may be useful as a printed document or for digital storage.

The positive comments (much apreciated) and the fact that we are all being cajoled into an extended period of social isolation may mean that I resort to preparing more of this sort of material in order to stave off raging insanity!

Alan
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Old 13th Mar 2020, 11:24 pm   #13
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Default Re: Grundig Party Boy 700 Aerial Repair

Thanks for that PDF, Alan. Very handy. I've filed it away safely.

Mike
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Old 23rd Apr 2020, 10:48 am   #14
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Default Re: Telescopic Aerial Repair.

PRE-AMBLE

At the end of the opening post I mentioned my intention to attempt the repair of a couple of aerials with missing sections using inexpensive donors sourced from China. The following describes the first of these repairs.

The subject this time is a Philips D2604 aerial that should have five sections and is the type which, when closed and folded, clips into position along the top of the radio rather than retracting into a tube inside the case. The overall extended length including the knuckle and cap should be about 91cm. When acquired the top section was broken near the junction with the tube below leaving only a short stub behind. The portion above the break and the top cap were missing.

USING A DONOR

The first split image shows the broken aerial together with the donor. Despite having only four tubes I chose the donor on the basis that the individual sections appeared to be broadly similar in length to those of the damaged aerial. Selecting a donor was always going to be a bit of a shot in the dark because of the limited dimensional information provided by most vendors especially in relation to tube diameter.

THE REPAIR

The second photo shows the component parts of the two aerials. Dismantling was undertaken using the methodology described in the opening post. The tubes of the broken aerial are numbered from the bottom up. Similarly the donor’s tubes are indicated with the letters A to D.

The first challenge was to match tubes from the donor so that the repaired aerial would have the required five sections. It soon became apparent that D was too thin to sit comfortably inside 4 so, after a little trial and error, a match was achieved by doubling up sections C and 4. Since C was shorter than 4 it was necessary to reduce the length of 4. C was fitted inside 4 and holes drilled through both to accommodate the bearing shells which in turn locked the tubes together.

At this point I had a repaired aerial which was functionally satisfactory (see third photo). However, when closed the aerial was too short and would not clip correctly into position. The solution to this problem involved using X and Y as ‘stoppers’. X is the trimmed portion of 4 and Y is a small section cut from the remains of the original fifth tube. These two pieces were inserted into tubes 3 and C respectively during reassembly thereby preventing the tubes above from retracting fully with the aerial in the closed position. This resulted in an aerial which seated properly when folded into its clips (see fourth photo).

As with the Party Boy’s aerial the top cap was made using a small section of brass rod painted silver, rather than black, to match the general colour scheme of the radio itself (see last photo).

IMPLICATIONS

Overall, when fully extended, the repaired aerial is about 6 cm shorter than the original due to the dimensional limitations of the donor’s component parts and the necessary removal of the double swaged section at the base. The latter also means that there is a slightly increased gap between the top edges of tubes 1 and 2 when the aerial is closed. To me these are acceptable compromises in terms of achieving a repair that maintains something akin to originality when it comes to both function and appearance.

CONCLUSION

This repair was a little more complex than the Party Boy example because of the ‘lie flat’ design and the use of a non-original donor. I found the repair much easier to execute in practice than to describe in words. Nonetheless I hope to have demonstrated that a broken aerial can easily be repaired economically (the donor cost 99p all in) even if there are missing sections.

Motivated by satisfactory completion of the aerial repair I did also refurbish the radio itself but that is another story.

Alan
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Old 30th Apr 2020, 8:23 am   #15
dave walsh
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Default Re: Telescopic Aerial Repair.

Excellent Alan. Yes, I recall being amazed by Mike Phelan's "Master Class" of micro engineering a number of years ago when most of us assumed that a telescopic aerial repair was impossible. You seem to be reaching the same standard.

Dave W
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Old 7th Jun 2020, 3:07 pm   #16
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Default Re: Telescopic Aerial Repair.

Thanks for these tips. I accidentally snapped the aerial off my bathroom radio back in February. I'd made an awful repair by wrapping copper wire around the base and attempting to colour-match it with solder

Whilst clearing out my recycling tub yesterday, I found the scrap remnants of an aerial that I'd replaced many, many years ago. A quick measure confirmed that the outer tube was almost the same diameter.

I'd always assumed the tiny holes at the bottom of the tube were tiny roll pins that I could never get out. The clear notes here gave me the confidence to attack it with the hacksaw and make a good repair. I even managed to find the tiny washer, abandoned on a side table for months!

Seeing how the Maplin, CPC and Cricklewood supplies are drying up, I'll be keeping hold of the remaining bits now. I haven't seen the 'Rabbit Ears' in Poundland for quite a while, but a similar product is sold in Home Bargains.

Make do and mend!

SR
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