Another Alive ICC5!

[IKC2E51R8]

Hi All,

Last year I made a post in the Wanted Forum asking if anyone had a 51P7 or 59P7 they would consider parting with, Glyn offered me his 59P7A that he had in storage since 2007. After working out the logistics the TV finally arrived today and survived the Journey from Wales to Dublin.

Before I dared apply power I opened it up first to make sure nothing got damaged during transit and everything looked ok, I re-soldered a fair few dry joints that I could spot with my headlamp and a magnifier and then I replaced the WIMA mains filter. I let it sit for a bit afterwards to get to room temperature.

Finally it was power on time, plugged it in and it worked, came straight on and stayed on, it did have an E/W fault as the sides were bowed which glyn already told me about, i adjusted the Potentiometer for the E/W control a few times and then the pciture returned to normal and stayed that way

Then I noticed that it had the familiar Hanover blinds effect that i've had an issue with on both my IKC2 sets and my Sharp 8PSR, Luckily the adjustment for this is easily accessible (easier than the IKC2) and with a slight adjustment I had a crystal clear picture.

The picture on it is Excellent, even more impressive when you consider it hasnt been turned on since 2007 when Glyn part exchanged it. I remember someone on here commenting on the 'Rock solid Regulation' of the ICC5 and i have to agree, No breathing of the image, everything image wise and sound wise is perfect.

The set also arrived with a full ICC5 Power supply repair kit which may come in handy in the future.

I had it running for about 3 hours playing back some music videos from Youtube via my PS3.

Very happy to have a fully Working ICC5 and soon I'll have a 51K5 its Nicam sibling to go with it which Thanks to David is also fully working.

2021 and fully working ICC5's are still living.

Some pics below of the set + Chassis + the WIMA I replaced before it got a chance to go BOOM

[agardiner]

Nice!

[IKC2E51R8]

E/W Fault is back, had it off a few hours and turned it back on and the sides are bowed again, this time adjusting the potentiometer isn't doing a whole lot to fix it, I'll have to have a proper look around the E/W coil tomorrow, possibly a dry joint ive missed.

I may need a replacement EW Coil - even just to have on standby for the future if no other fix works - only problem is I've no idea what the part number is or where I could find one

[Welsh Anorak]

I wouldn't think the E/W coil will have failed intermittently - they just died spectacularly! Change the pot, the IC and the diodes - also ISTYR a fusible resitor in the area.
Looking good - my (now late) customer wasn't an avid TV watcher.
Actually I think it was a bit later than 2007 as I changed it for an LG32" so would have been around 2011/12.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by Welsh Anorak

I wouldn't think the E/W coil will have failed intermittently - they just died spectacularly! Change the pot, the IC and the diodes - also ISTYR a fusible resitor in the area.
Looking good - my (now late) customer wasn't an avid TV watcher.
Actually I think it was a bit later than 2007 as I changed it for an LG32" so would have been around 2011/12.

Think I may have found the problem, it had been getting pretty toasty in around the EW Coil, these resistors look cooked. Have to dry dig out some replacments

[IKC2E51R8]

Powered it on after having the back off, resoldered some more dry joints I missed the first time and now it seems to be working, haven't replaced those resistors yet as I don't have any, but I had it running for a while and it stayed stable, I even moved it while it was running and set it down somewhere else and it stayed OK. I will need to replace the vertical pot though as I noticed the picture was a bit stretched and when I went to adjust it the picture started rolling and blanking out and the set was making odd sounds, I've gotten it stable again but I will have to order a new pot and a few other bits for this set to keep it running.

[ben]

Nice set. I have some Elbe /Beltran sets with similar profile.

In storage I have a very early version of the ICC5, a 28" Telefunken 617 from (I think) 1986. That had the same intermittent picture problems you did, last time it was used it tripped and one day I will get round to repairing it. I vaguely remember an offer of a replacement chassis from a forum member, but then came covid-19 and I've lost track of the matter!

The reason I didn't sling it out in frustration with the intermittent problems is the fantastic picture it produced when it did work. Tube is by Videocolor. The sound (stereo) was the best I had ever heard on a TV until I got my Loewe Xelos

[IKC2E51R8]

Thanks Ben, Its a very nice set, Ive ordered a few bits for it from eBay, I had it running for a few hours but with those darkened resistors id be worried it wont last so ive ordered some and ive also ordered a new pot for the vertical adjust , the EW pot seems to be working fine now after cleaning it and adjusting back and forth a few times.

I think the focus might be a teeny bit off on it too so i'll try adjust when the replacement parts arrive and try get the best possible picture out of it; though as it is the picture is very good on it.

One fault i never wanna get with it is the three trips fault, ive read some horror stories about it and it sounds like a minefield to fix when it happens.

[ben]

Originally Posted by IKC2E51R8

One fault i never wanna get with it is the three trips fault, ive read some horror stories about it and it sounds like a minefield to fix when it happens.

The good thing is, there is a huge database of fault tips for this chassis as it was used by a number of manufacturers -from B&O to Saba - and in number of screen sizes. Solutions to the 'three trips' come up a fair bit. Sometimes even the 'fault sensing' transistor was at fault, IIRC!

[ben]

Originally Posted by IKC2E51R8

I think the focus might be a teeny bit off on it too so i'll try adjust when the replacement parts arrive

That's probably normal if the set hasn't been used for years. Give it a long run-in period before adjusting.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by ben

The good thing is, there is a huge database of fault tips for this chassis as it was used by a number of manufacturers -from B&O to Saba - and in number of screen sizes. Solutions to the 'three trips' come up a fair bit. Sometimes even the 'fault sensing' transistor was at fault, IIRC!

I found a site that has all the old CRT stock faults listed and when doing a search for ICC5 - 319 Entries. It'l come in handy in the future

[IKC2E51R8]

Hi Everyone,
Im gonna need a bit of help with this ICC5. The new EW IC and RL44 Resistors arrived today, I fitted them, did another two or three ropey joints and powered on.

Set came on - good sign
Tiniest bit of smoke from around the flyback area - no picture
Powered the set off before anything went boom.

Had a look around the parts I just fitted - all looked ok
Powered on again, no picture but scan coils sounded odd
adjusted the pots at the back and the image appeared but its a bit all over the place and unstable, theres partial frame collapse at the top and bottom with a bright white line at the top of the raster. Adjusted the height pots moves the image up and down the screen but the entire screen isnt filled. everytime i went to adjust the pots the scan coils sounded odd and the image would flicker on and off or jump up and down.

I powered the set off and had another look at the board. Resistor JL34 is Burned so i guess thats where the smoke was coming from. JL34 is in the supply for IG01 the EW IC so im wondering could the new IC be the reason it popped? Also im confused about the value of JL34, i cant make out the colours on it due to the burn and the manual has it at 150ohms but on all the service tips ive found that mention it they list it as 22ohms? I dont want to replace it with the wrong value in case it causes more damage.

can anyone help me sort this?

[IKC2E51R8]

Well i figured out what happened! Me!

I must have been half asleep when i fit the New EW IC. I put it in upside down so all the pins were wrong and the supply input went to the wrong pin and killed the safety resistor and the IC which thanks to my phone camera's zoom ive figured out to be 22 Ohms fusible. So a new resistor and IC has been ordered. hopefully once they're replaced it'll work fine again.

[ben]

Fit an IC socket in case things go t*ts up again, that way you won't damage the board with excessive soldering and desoldering. These PCBs are very dense with SMD resistors all over the place.

[IKC2E51R8]

I replaced the IC and the RL44 Resistor and the Vertical and EW Pots plus the J134 fusible. I had it running for two hours and it ran perfect. Then it was left over the weekend and last night i turned it on again and same as before; the left side of the pic bows in slightly, sometimes its more than that, something i didnt notice before is it goes away with a gentle tap so i think the real issue is just more dry joints ive missed. I'll really need to spend some time with a decent magnifier and do alot of resoldering, I might just set aside the time and go over the whole board or at least the power and field area.

[ben]

Those geometry pots at the rear are an absolute PITA. It's another quirk of this really very weird chassis, which for its time had advances such as an OSD menu, huge integration in that massive IC, SMD components and protection circuitry... yet you're reminded of its age when you see that thyristor and the damn pots! I think all subsequent ICCs had those adjustments in software, which was far more reliable.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by ben

Those geometry pots at the rear are an absolute PITA. It's another quirk of this really very weird chassis, which for its time had advances such as an OSD menu, huge integration in that massive IC, SMD components and protection circuitry... yet you're reminded of its age when you see that thyristor and the damn pots! I think all subsequent ICCs had those adjustments in software, which was far more reliable.

The Pots are not great and they're a bit of a pain to replace because they're part of the chassis frame, though ive never had an issue with them on other sets, My IKC2 sets have them at the back the same and they've never given trouble. The ICC7 had them at the back also so it might have been from ICC9 onwards they were in software.

They are all fully working now in this set but there is more dry joints i'll have to look after adn hopefully then thats all i'll have to do.

Still I think for a chassis that's disliked by so many i think its not so bad, its easy enough to work on and seems very stable once its running well. For my first run in with an ICC5 I think ive been very lucky so far.

[Welsh Anorak]

Yes - those pots were a problem. I wonder if any other TV used a thyristor frame stage?

[Red to black]

Well the ICC3 and 4, the IKC2 and the Nordmende F10 did as well.

I am not sure if the F10 chassis had a direct ICC counterpart as the diagram doesn't really bear any resemblance to to any of the other Thomson ICC chassis above.
The IKC2 was probably the last chassis to use it as the ICC7 and all subsequent chassis never did.

Edit: The Nordmende F10 looks very similar to the ICC3

[IKC2E51R8]

Later tonight im gonna give the board a good look over and tackle any dry joints i find. Im gonna check the connections with my meter and make sure the connections are made as i understand ICC5 had an issue with oxidization under the pads causing intermittant connections so i want to rule that out as a cause