English Electric TV sets

[FERNSEH]

Correction to the synchrophase circuit diagram.
V21A should read as Cathode follower.

[Mikey405]

Hi all.

I hope everyone had a great Christmas. Over the period I've managed to get a little bit further with the EE 1550MF. My very talented pal John Beckley in Dowland, Devon identified the colour exactly and sprayed the metal cabinet sections.

Now I need to try and look at the rubber tube mask whilst the rest of the cabinet goes to Solihull for some love. Which leads me to the question: Can anyone recommend a method that might "stabilise" the 70 year old rubber (it seems to have "thinned" in places) - and how I might be able to "fill" and paint the front section, which has the look of a crocodile-skin handbag?

Thanks everyone.

Kind regards.

From Mike in very wet Solihull.

[PaulR]

My parents bought a C42 in 1954 when I was "on the way". It lasted for around 10 years. The repair man said the tube heater had blown. My parents said that the tube had been repaired once and so the set was consigned to the box room where it stayed for many years until finally sent to the tip. I remember them saying it had cost getting on for £100 including the aerial.

An early memory is of watching Watch With Mother on it

[Rich Woods]

My first thought is does it have to be rubber? Could a replacement me made of wood and a rubber beading be used where it contacts the tube itself. The replacement could be made to look virtually identical using this method unless I am missing something?

[Mikey405]

Hi Rich.

Apologies for the delay in replying to your message. I guess wood might be something to consider but I'm definitely not a craftsman (I can hardly get a matching pair of socks in the morning) and I think carving a block like that would need a skill much greater than I have.

Thanks Rich.

Kind regards.

From Mike.

[Rich Woods]

Hi Mike,

Ah well, it was worth a thought. I suppose you could possibly find a helpful chippy, if not good luck with renovating the rubber.

Best Wishes,

Rich

[Mikey405]

Thanks Rich. I've left the mask to soak for an hour-or-so in some hot soapy water in the bath to remove some of the dirt. I have a few ideas after that so we shall see.

The cabinet has been stripped down completely and was taken away by the restorer chap today, and the metalwork is now all lovely and shiny too, so just the electronics to get sorted now.

[slidertogrid]

A few coats of high build primer may help if the mask is sound and not dissolving. it used to be a pale yellow colour when I last used it, It depends how deep the marks are in the surface are though, it may not do on its own, there is also a product called spot putty which is used to take out minor imperfections and scratches before primer or between primer and top coat you would have to be careful flatting it back though. It is more flexible than other fillers so shouldn't crack if the mask flexes.
Great job I am following with interest!
Rich