Baird T5 restoration project.

[FERNSEH]

That's the control panel veneered.
The front panel is the next part to receive attention.

DFWB.

[FERNSEH]

Tomorrow the front panel will be prepared for the application of veneers.
The wood grain pattern will be a continuation from the upper control panel.

DFWB.

[Argus25]

Originally Posted by FERNSEH

Hello Jac,
I used Gorilla wood glue, the best glue I've ever used. Made in the USA.
Gorilla market a wide range of adhesives. There's one for every job.

"For the toughest jobs on Planet Earth"

DFWB.

The best glues available for woodworking and re-veneering especially, come from the Luthier's suppliers (Usually Stewart MacDonald), I use Titebond.

I have never warmed to many of the Gorilla glue products as they evolve gas and foam up while setting.

It is impossible to beat Titebond for re-veneering, it acts like a far superior PVA:

https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...and_Adhesives/

The Luthier suppliers have always had more advanced glues due to the difficulties of restoring musical instruments. They also have excellent woodworking tools too that are difficult to get elsewhere.

[FERNSEH]

"It is impossible to beat Titebond for re-veneering, it acts like a far superior PVA"
Stewmac ships products to the UK. https://www.stewmac.com/StewMAX/Stew...embership.html

DFWB.

[FERNSEH]

After checking the remains of the original front panel we find that the edges around the aperture of the timebase controls are not veneered but simply painted brown. First picture. The same applies to the T23.

The second picture shows the veneer sheets selected for the front panel.

Since these pictures were taken the veneers have been glued to the panel and are presently under the special press made for the job.

DFWB.

[Argus25]

Originally Posted by FERNSEH

"It is impossible to beat Titebond for re-veneering, it acts like a far superior PVA"
Stewmac ships products to the UK. https://www.stewmac.com/StewMAX/Stew...embership.html

DFWB.

Also, they sell amazing Tortoise shell and "Mother of Pearl" like panels if you ever need this too, for restorations/repairs:

https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an..._Material.html

https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...Materials.html


I used some of this material for a vintage amplifier replica:

http://worldphaco.com/uploads/UX-171...amplifier..pdf

[FERNSEH]

The veneered front panel.

DFWB.

[peter_scott]

That's beginning to look like a T5!

Peter

[FERNSEH]

Hi Peter,
now the detailing must be removed from the damaged front panel and transferred to the new one. Some T5 sets don't have this feature and resemble the more austere looking T23.
The attachment is a reworked picture from post No 5.

DFWB.

[FERNSEH]

The attachment shows the decorative strips are now transferred to the new front panel. Two are missing so replicas will have to be made.

DFWB.

[Argus25]

Fit the replica of the CRT mask I think, rather than the old worm infected one. There is a logical reason. You want the restoration to last as far as possible into the future and look as good as possible too.The old worm infected wood is not consistent with these two objectives.

[FERNSEH]

Close up picture of one of the decorative strips. There's evidence that work has been done in the past to correct woodworm damage. The holes and filler came to light after the dark lacquer was sanded off.

DFWB.

[FERNSEH]

Visited the local B&Q store yesterday and found the wood strips we're looking for to replace the missing and damaged decorative strips on the front panel and controls door. The edges of the new strips will need squaring up to match the existing parts.

DFWB.

[stevehertz]

Originally Posted by FERNSEH

Visited the local B&Q store yesterday and found the wood strips we're looking for to replace the missing and damaged decorative strips on the front panel and controls door. The edges of the new strips will need squaring up to match the existing parts.

DFWB.

Difficult to tell from the photos, but pretty sure the B&Q ones are pine and the original ones are perhaps alder. Dyed and lacquered they will be perfect.

[FERNSEH]

Hi Steve,
The strip is pine but as you say when it's dyed and lacquered they will be perfect. It's 8 foot long so there is plenty there to do some dye colour experimentation.

DFWB.

[stevehertz]

Originally Posted by FERNSEH

Hi Steve,
The strip is pine but as you say when it's dyed and lacquered they will be perfect. It's 8 foot long so there is plenty there to do some dye colour experimentation.

DFWB.

I'd try wood dye first to get a good base colour as near as possible, then fine tune the colour using coloured varnishes/lacquers, mixing them if necessary to obtain the correct hue.

[FERNSEH]

stevehertz wrote: "I'd try wood dye first to get a good base colour as near as possible, then fine tune the colour using coloured varnishes/lacquers, mixing them if necessary to obtain the correct hue."

The original decorative strips were pinned and glued into position yesterday. The replacement strips will receive special attention in the manner Steve suggests.
Later today the new panel will test fitted in the cabinet.

DFWB.

[FERNSEH]

Showing the new front panel fitted in the cabinet.

DFWB.

[peter_scott]

It's going to be very good!

Peter

[FERNSEH]

Although the new side panels looked OK, after applying French polish I wasn't entirely satisfied with the appearance of the surfaces. On Monday it was decided to use the remainder of those veneer sheets bought last year to improve the look of the sides. Also, as the front panel is covered with those decorative strips the grain pattern of the veneer is almost covered up. At least the new veneers can be seen at the sides. I haven't book matched the veneer because the original panels weren't done in that manner.

DFWB.