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Old 1st Mar 2021, 12:27 pm   #1
FERNSEH
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Default Pye Piper P115.

Acquired this set last spring during the first lockdown.
Looking at the condition of the mains dropper resistor this topic could well be introduced into "Bodges".
Did consider using a capacitive dropper but decided to use resistors instead.
R17, the 180ohm anode resistor of the UY85 is required irrespective of what type of heater dropper is used. Heater chain resistor R18 was 930ohms and R19 was 300ohms.
Replaced R18 with two 1.8Kohm UTM type resistors and R19 is a 330ohm resistor of the same type
Heater resistor wattage works to be 12.3W.
The UY41 HT rectifier replaced by an UY85. B9A valveholder fitted on the existing B8A socket. Could be considered a bodge or a necessary expedient because at the time I had no UY41s in stock.

Capacitive dropper works out as 1.5microfarads.

DFWB.
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Old 7th Mar 2021, 1:22 pm   #2
Heatercathodeshort
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

WOW! That Piper looks a real cooker David. Switched on in 1957 till he died in 1999. I may have a piper somewhere or it may be an R33. I will have to dig it out and have a look inside. That mains dropper is nothing short of a disaster! Regards, John.
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Old 8th Mar 2021, 8:17 pm   #3
Brigham
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

Is there still a supplier of 'proper' polo-mint sectional droppers?
I really don't like those oblong blocks.
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Old 9th Mar 2021, 7:35 am   #4
crackle
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

That looks like a very dangerous form of asbestos on the top of the dropper.

Mike
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Old 9th Mar 2021, 10:48 am   #5
G6ONEDave
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

I'm sure that if the required dropper resistances are requested that polo mint types would come out of members parts collections.

I check that pcb for resistive leakage in the burnt areas, it could be a problem that causes anything from distorted audio to a loud mains hum. I repaired a b&w tv many years ago that was burnt up like that. The symptom was a mains ripple on the screen and the burn up was in the line output stage. I repaired it by mounting the line and boost valves on a metal bracket that I fitted about 1/2" above the pcb and hard wired everything. I also had to remove quite a lot of carbonised paxolin. Once done the set's picture was perfect without any trace of ripple.
Dave
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Old 9th Mar 2021, 1:59 pm   #6
Edward Huggins
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

The story behind this Piper series was the brief to make these as cheaply as possible. There were 2 objectives, one a a Pye "starter" radio to relieve old pre-war radios still struggling in 1956 and also for use as a second set, ideally for the kitchen. There was a very low component count and, at first, "U" series valves. The later VHF models used reflex IF/AF circuitry featuring the then quite new ECL82 valve. But for what they were, they worked.
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Old 9th Mar 2021, 2:25 pm   #7
Steve_P
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Default Re: Pye Piper P115.

Take that dropper out completely and clean the area thoroughly. Then I would go for the capacitive dropper as it is a small radio and the capacitive dropper dropper generates no heat.

Put the right valve in! Safer than a bodge.

A few capacitors (especially THAT capacitor) and it should work rather well, These do,,,,

Cheers,

Steve P,
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