Decals / Transfers for a HMV - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

SKEXIS1 · 23rd Jun 2009, 10:06 pm

Gents,

Attached is a photo of the original decal that's on top of the HMV set I've recently bought. The transfer's in pretty good order, but the rest of the cabinet needs some work.

Do you know whether these decals available? Or has anyone got a digitised version that could be printed onto water slide transfer perhaps?

Any advice would be welcome. I'm a bit reluctant to sand it off, but it will look a little odd if the rest of the cabinet is nicely re-finished and there is a square with the transfer on it that's been left alone!

Thanks!

Andy

dave_n_t · 23rd Jun 2009, 11:28 pm

Andy,

I had a similar problem, and ended up scanning a speaker to capture the image, then cleaning up the image (at the pixel level!) with MS Paint. It took a lot of work, but the results worked well printed onto waterslide paper.

(I've attached my cleaned-up image in case it's of any use to readers of this thread).

dave

Nickthedentist · 24th Jun 2009, 1:35 pm

Great work, Dave!

But I would try to save your original, Andy.

Does your set really need stripping? Could you post a picture of it?

Original finishes can often be revived, and your set would look nicer for it. Have a look at the recent thread about restoring a finish on a KB console.

Nick.

Panrock · 24th Jun 2009, 5:19 pm

Here's another one I've been using. The HMV transfer is a problem because you really need to make a combination of an opaque transfer (for the central box) and a transparent (for the letters) transfer. One way to do this is to create a transparent one using Lazertran paper and then add an opaque one of the box, on top. But you'll need to experiment with various 'darknesses' out of your printer to get a good result for both the letters and the box.

These transfers used to be available commercially - I've got one of them on my restored HMV 469, but I don't know who might still have them.

Steve

Radio_Dave · 24th Jun 2009, 6:30 pm

Hi Andy,

I really like your original transfer. Is there any possibility you could sit the cabinet on a scanner and email a scan of it to me?

Regards
David

yestertech · 24th Jun 2009, 6:53 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickthedentist

But I would try to save your original, Andy.

Does your set really need stripping? Could you post a picture of it?

Original finishes can often be revived, and your set would look nicer for it.
Nick.

I wholeheartedly agree. It should be a last resort, as even fairly deep scratches can be filled. The cabinet probably looks grim at the moment but will look a whole lot better when the a coat of oil is applied to freshen it up. And that 'patina of age' is impossible to recreate with newer finishes.
Of course if we're talking major veneer loss and/or woodworm damage.....

Andy

chipp1968 · 24th Jun 2009, 7:46 pm

I remember marconi and HMV transfers available 20 years ago . I need one for my HMV tV ,but yours has more to it .It may be saveable . piccy please

SKEXIS1 · 24th Jun 2009, 8:12 pm

Chaps,

Thanks for your help - Dave & Panrock - excellent work on the digitally re-made versions!

I was thinking the same thing re: scanning the original before doing anything, the problem I have at the moment is that my scanner glass is not flush with the surrounding plastic - as a result I can't get the scanning surface close enough to the transfer to get a decent scan.

I will perservere though - I'm sure I can find someone with an appropriate scanner!

Attached are a few photos of the cabinet. You're right that the cabinet may well respond well to a good clean up; however the finish is that typical thinly laquered type, which chips easily. I'm not too sure how to go about improving that, but I'll check out the thread you mentioned.

Thanks for your help!

Andy

AlanBeckett · 24th Jun 2009, 10:37 pm

Andy,
Perhaps I'm not being pedantic enough, but it looks splendid from a distance. I'm with the camp that says can you work round it?
Alan

Nickthedentist · 25th Jun 2009, 12:48 am

Andy,

My first impressions are that your original finish is saveable

Let's see what the others have to say.

Nick.

davidw · 25th Jun 2009, 7:52 am

I'm with the "it looks ok to me group"..If it were mine I'd give it a touch up with one of these products,(others are available!).At least the label is on the glass dial and will come off easily.

chipp1968 · 25th Jun 2009, 8:21 am

I agree that it looks like it will revive with good results.You will always see some marks but they will be toned down .It s worth the effort and in fact is less effort than stripping and re finishing ,which will never look as original unless done proff , even the roughest strip and refinish would be harder effort than the revive especially if all the scratches are like the ones you have shown and the finish is like that all over, not turning to powder.

Radio_Dave · 25th Jun 2009, 10:49 am

Hi Andy,

You should also consider the problems with making this transfer. As Panrock mentioned earlier, you need a mix of transparent and white opaque backgrounds. My method would be to use two transparent waterslides and paint the relevant areas with white paint on one and then lay the other one top. It sounds easy, but it's not and looking at all the 'floating' lettering, it might even be impossible!.... It's still worth scanning for posterity though

Like everyone else I think you should try and keep its finish. Everybody has their own opinion on this, but this is how I would proceed

Firstly, it needs a good clean, I'd polish it with T-Cut and then remove the dried residue with a cloth dampened in white spirit. Don't flood it with white spirit as it could craze the lacquer
I'd then paint Danish oil into the scratches and wipe the excess off after a couple of minutes (to avoid a build up around the scratch)
After at least 6 hours I'd give the whole cabinet a wipe over with Danish oil and then a second coat, only if needed, after 24 hours.

HTH
David

Panrock · 25th Jun 2009, 1:58 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radio_Dave

My method would be to use two transparent waterslides and paint the relevant areas with white paint on one and then lay the other one top. It sounds easy, but it's not and looking at all the 'floating' lettering, it might even be impossible!....

Too right. And btw my experience is that two transparent waterslides on top of one another didn't look right for the 'box' area. When I once tried this it looked far too mellow (more like a dark watermark) and still 'transparent'.

Steve

SKEXIS1 · 26th Jun 2009, 1:17 pm

Chaps - I'll give it a go!

I bought some burnishing creme (which I guess is pretty similar to T-Cut) and I've got plenty of Danish oil so will see how that combination works out!

Thanks for your advice

Andy

chipp1968 · 26th Jun 2009, 9:00 pm

Good ! remember you may need to colour some scratches to hide them before the oil is applied
OH and dont rub the decal too hard with anything in case it rubs away

PJL · 26th Jun 2009, 10:21 pm

Clean with white spirit. Apply boiling (very hot) linseed oil and rub hard and quick before it cools. This trick will remove minor crazing and recover the gloss finish where matt surprisingly well.

Danish oil will not bond too well with cellulose laquer.

Retired · 29th Jun 2009, 8:33 pm

Hi Andy, A while ago there was a short article in the "Bulletin" which suggested using nothing more than old fashioned liquid paraffin. I couldn't believe the result and ended up going over lots of our woodwork with it including solid mahogany kitchen units. Liquid paraffin took a lot of finding but it is readily available at about £1 per bottle from Asda Pharmacies. Good luck, Col.

23rd Jun 2009, 10:06 pm	#1
SKEXIS1 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Redditch, Worcs, UK Posts: 66	Decals / Transfers for a HMV Gents, Attached is a photo of the original decal that's on top of the HMV set I've recently bought. The transfer's in pretty good order, but the rest of the cabinet needs some work. Do you know whether these decals available? Or has anyone got a digitised version that could be printed onto water slide transfer perhaps? Any advice would be welcome. I'm a bit reluctant to sand it off, but it will look a little odd if the rest of the cabinet is nicely re-finished and there is a square with the transfer on it that's been left alone! Thanks! Andy Attached Thumbnails

23rd Jun 2009, 11:28 pm	#2
dave_n_t Hexode Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, UK. Posts: 298	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Andy, I had a similar problem, and ended up scanning a speaker to capture the image, then cleaning up the image (at the pixel level!) with MS Paint. It took a lot of work, but the results worked well printed onto waterslide paper. (I've attached my cleaned-up image in case it's of any use to readers of this thread). dave Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave Teague

24th Jun 2009, 1:35 pm	#3
Nickthedentist Dekatron Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Oxford, UK. Posts: 17,863	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Great work, Dave! But I would try to save your original, Andy. Does your set really need stripping? Could you post a picture of it? Original finishes can often be revived, and your set would look nicer for it. Have a look at the recent thread about restoring a finish on a KB console. Nick.

24th Jun 2009, 5:19 pm	#4
Panrock Nonode Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Worcestershire, UK. Posts: 2,534	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Here's another one I've been using. The HMV transfer is a problem because you really need to make a combination of an opaque transfer (for the central box) and a transparent (for the letters) transfer. One way to do this is to create a transparent one using Lazertran paper and then add an opaque one of the box, on top. But you'll need to experiment with various 'darknesses' out of your printer to get a good result for both the letters and the box. These transfers used to be available commercially - I've got one of them on my restored HMV 469, but I don't know who might still have them. Steve Attached Thumbnails __________________ https://www.radiocraft.co.uk

24th Jun 2009, 6:30 pm	#5
Radio_Dave Nonode Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK. Posts: 2,543	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Hi Andy, I really like your original transfer. Is there any possibility you could sit the cabinet on a scanner and email a scan of it to me? Regards David

24th Jun 2009, 7:46 pm	#7
chipp1968 Rest in Peace Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Somerset, UK. Posts: 2,356	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV I remember marconi and HMV transfers available 20 years ago . I need one for my HMV tV ,but yours has more to it .It may be saveable . piccy please

24th Jun 2009, 8:12 pm	#8
SKEXIS1 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Redditch, Worcs, UK Posts: 66	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Chaps, Thanks for your help - Dave & Panrock - excellent work on the digitally re-made versions! I was thinking the same thing re: scanning the original before doing anything, the problem I have at the moment is that my scanner glass is not flush with the surrounding plastic - as a result I can't get the scanning surface close enough to the transfer to get a decent scan. I will perservere though - I'm sure I can find someone with an appropriate scanner! Attached are a few photos of the cabinet. You're right that the cabinet may well respond well to a good clean up; however the finish is that typical thinly laquered type, which chips easily. I'm not too sure how to go about improving that, but I'll check out the thread you mentioned. Thanks for your help! Andy Attached Thumbnails

24th Jun 2009, 10:37 pm	#9
AlanBeckett Rest in Peace Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Burton upon Trent, East Staffordshire, UK. Posts: 1,686	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Andy, Perhaps I'm not being pedantic enough, but it looks splendid from a distance. I'm with the camp that says can you work round it? Alan

25th Jun 2009, 12:48 am	#10
Nickthedentist Dekatron Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Oxford, UK. Posts: 17,863	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Andy, My first impressions are that your original finish is saveable Let's see what the others have to say. Nick.

25th Jun 2009, 7:52 am	#11
davidw Heptode Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK. Posts: 643	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV I'm with the "it looks ok to me group"..If it were mine I'd give it a touch up with one of these products,(others are available!).At least the label is on the glass dial and will come off easily. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Dave G1AGK. My perception is my reality!

25th Jun 2009, 8:21 am	#12
chipp1968 Rest in Peace Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Somerset, UK. Posts: 2,356	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV I agree that it looks like it will revive with good results.You will always see some marks but they will be toned down .It s worth the effort and in fact is less effort than stripping and re finishing ,which will never look as original unless done proff , even the roughest strip and refinish would be harder effort than the revive especially if all the scratches are like the ones you have shown and the finish is like that all over, not turning to powder.

25th Jun 2009, 10:49 am	#13
Radio_Dave Nonode Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK. Posts: 2,543	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Hi Andy, You should also consider the problems with making this transfer. As Panrock mentioned earlier, you need a mix of transparent and white opaque backgrounds. My method would be to use two transparent waterslides and paint the relevant areas with white paint on one and then lay the other one top. It sounds easy, but it's not and looking at all the 'floating' lettering, it might even be impossible!.... It's still worth scanning for posterity though Like everyone else I think you should try and keep its finish. Everybody has their own opinion on this, but this is how I would proceed Firstly, it needs a good clean, I'd polish it with T-Cut and then remove the dried residue with a cloth dampened in white spirit. Don't flood it with white spirit as it could craze the lacquer I'd then paint Danish oil into the scratches and wipe the excess off after a couple of minutes (to avoid a build up around the scratch) After at least 6 hours I'd give the whole cabinet a wipe over with Danish oil and then a second coat, only if needed, after 24 hours. HTH David

26th Jun 2009, 1:17 pm	#15
SKEXIS1 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Redditch, Worcs, UK Posts: 66	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Chaps - I'll give it a go! I bought some burnishing creme (which I guess is pretty similar to T-Cut) and I've got plenty of Danish oil so will see how that combination works out! Thanks for your advice Andy

26th Jun 2009, 9:00 pm	#16
chipp1968 Rest in Peace Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Somerset, UK. Posts: 2,356	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Good ! remember you may need to colour some scratches to hide them before the oil is applied OH and dont rub the decal too hard with anything in case it rubs away

26th Jun 2009, 10:21 pm	#17
PJL Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Seaford, East Sussex, UK. Posts: 5,997	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Clean with white spirit. Apply boiling (very hot) linseed oil and rub hard and quick before it cools. This trick will remove minor crazing and recover the gloss finish where matt surprisingly well. Danish oil will not bond too well with cellulose laquer.

29th Jun 2009, 8:33 pm	#18
Retired Heptode Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Fenay Bridge, Huddersfield. UK. Posts: 673	Re: Decals / Transfers for a HMV Hi Andy, A while ago there was a short article in the "Bulletin" which suggested using nothing more than old fashioned liquid paraffin. I couldn't believe the result and ended up going over lots of our woodwork with it including solid mahogany kitchen units. Liquid paraffin took a lot of finding but it is readily available at about £1 per bottle from Asda Pharmacies. Good luck, Col.