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Old 27th Jul 2005, 11:06 pm   #1
stevekendal
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Smile Complete re-veneering

My 1934 Cossor 347 basket case is ready for re-veneering. Most of it fell off anyway. Have re-glued joints, fixed the de-laminating plywood and chased the worms away (I think). Last time I did a couple of sides using pearl glue I ended up with lots of bulges which I could only fix by slitting the veneer and injecting pva. Any thoughts out there? It is a straightforward square (ish) box shape.

Steve.


See also this thread.

Last edited by Darren-UK; 18th Aug 2007 at 11:51 pm. Reason: Excessive use of emoticons.
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Old 28th Jul 2005, 8:01 am   #2
Ed_Dinning
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Hi Steve, It is possible to by glue sheet from the big timber hobby suppliers (Boddys in Borobridge etc). This can then be used to "iron on" the veneer and achieves a good finish.

HTH Ed
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Old 28th Jul 2005, 4:29 pm   #3
m didier
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Have you read Tony Thompsons book. Vintage radios collecting .servicing . restoring. It as a good bit about veneering radio cabinets. I believe it is also on his website.

martin
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Old 28th Jul 2005, 4:47 pm   #4
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

My thanks to Martin for the book plug! Veneer is best soaked for an hour or two then damp-dried off with newspaper to avoid blisters before gluing, though this is perhaps best when using PVA, rather than animal (Scotch pearl) glue. The latter has some advantage in that it can be reheated and softened but in practice I find this of limited value and prefer PVA, though you don't have a second chance, so it is essential that you used strong, broad clamping blocks to cover the veneer surface completely. If you do decide to use the PVA method, don't clamp with newspaper interleaving - use paper towelling, or you'll find the unpleasant newsprint ink penetrates the damp veneer surface and can be difficult to remove.

I used iron-on veneer many years ago and found it reasonably OK for loudspeaker cabinets, though I prefer to use plain veneer.
-Tony
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Old 28th Jul 2005, 6:51 pm   #5
TNC
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Smile Re: Complete re-veneering

Use "old-fashioned" white wood glue.....using a paint-brush, coat both the cabinet and the veneer up to 12 hours before application (take great care not to miss any areas) by which time it will, to all intents and purposes, appear to be dry......then iron on using as much pressure as you can (the iron to be set just below the steam temperature and taking care to ensure there is no water in it!) and you will find you will have achieved a strong and effective bond.
My experince is that pre-wetting/soaking with water is not helpful - the bond will be stronger if both surfaces have been covered with glue when dry - added to which, the inevitable crinkling of a wet (and then dried) veneer makes obtaining a good bond with no bubbles more difficult.
I have used this method with considerable success - both on flat surfaces but also on the more difficult semi-rounded corner surfaces (Invicta T105 cabinet).
When finished, tap all over the veneer with the handle of a screwdriver to check there is full adhesion - any area where there is not will sound lighter (you can instantly tell) and re-iron with as much pressure as you can manage. Don't worry about singeing the veneer - unless you are really careless or the iron is red-hot it won't happen.
You will discover that veneering is an immensely satisfying process!

Good luck!!

Trevor.
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Old 29th Jul 2005, 11:32 am   #6
Aerodyne
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC
. My experience is that pre-wetting/soaking with water is not helpful - the bond will be stronger if both surfaces have been covered with glue when dry - added to which, the inevitable crinkling of a wet (and then dried) veneer makes obtaining a good bond with no bubbles more difficult.


We are going to have to agree to disagree on this one . Personally, I find that veneer is already generally slightly crinkled when it is purchased: soaking levels this problem out and expands the timber fibres. Damp-drying then gluing with PVA allows the timber to shrink as it dries, producing a flat surface. I've never tried using 'white' (do you mean PVA?) glue by ironing: I'll have to give it a go and see what happens.
I have used Thixofix contact adhesive -solvent based -, too, with success. Follow instructions on the tin (if it is still available, due to the glue sniffers of this world plus the Auntie regime).
Steve, food for thought. Take your pick!
-Tony

Last edited by Darren-UK; 18th Aug 2007 at 11:58 pm. Reason: Fixed quote.
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Old 29th Jul 2005, 12:30 pm   #7
Ed_Dinning
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Hi Gent, In case there is any confusion, the glue sheet I mentioned is simply that, no veneer attached and it is translucent, place on cabinet with veneer on top and use the hot iron.

Ed
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Old 29th Jul 2005, 12:38 pm   #8
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

I have used contact adhesive of the solvent based variaty for fixing vaneer down and can highely recomend it. it is simpely a matter of coating both surfaces then leaving the adesive to go tacky then press fermly down and there you have it job done. i have never had a problem with bulges using this technique. the adesive is still avalable from hardwhere stores like B n Q but they keep it in a little safe under the counter and you have to ask for it, they then usualy ask you what you want it for, i must admit i did once reply glue sniffing and they still sold it to me
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Old 29th Jul 2005, 1:25 pm   #9
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Just to add to the choices (i.e. confusion) another possibility is a very good spray on adhesive that 3M make. I've used it for gluing fabrics and leather in old car restoration. The benefits of it are twofold and may sound slightly contradictory but I assure you it is very easy to use.

1. It has very strong adhesive properties on initial contact so things don't tend to peal off again.

2. It is possible to lift it off and relay the material if you make a mistake.

I haven't seen it on sale generally but I got it from a motor factor. (Brown Brothers)

Peter
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Old 29th Jul 2005, 7:31 pm   #10
Aerodyne
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Ed, that translucent glue sheet sounds like a good all-round method to me. The problem with buying ready-made iron-on sheet is the limiting factor of veneer size and type, I imagine. The stuff you mention solves that! Boddys - are they on the net?
-Tony
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Old 30th Jul 2005, 1:07 pm   #11
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Hi All,


No one has mentioned the traditional veneering tools yet The 'J' roller and the 'veneer hammer' . Axminster tools list them on their web site: http://www.axminster.co.uk/

Both are used to 'flatten' the veneer after fixing. The J roller is obvious, a hard rubber roller on a J shaped handle. The veneer hammer is not a hammer at all but a wooden scraper or squeege type of item again for flattening the veneer.

Better still a vacuum clamp but here we get in to slightly silly pricing
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Old 30th Jul 2005, 8:21 pm   #12
Nickthedentist
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerodyne
Boddys - are they on the net?
-Tony
Apparently not, but their contact details appear on this page: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/diy-catalogues.html#boddys
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Old 1st Aug 2005, 10:26 pm   #13
stevekendal
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Default Re: Complete re-veneering

Many thanks for all your suggestions. In the end I used evostick contact adhesive, but I was surprised to discover it is now solvent-free. (Looks like pva and doesnt smell nice anymore) ! It did the job fine, but after 24 hours the veneer started shrinking and the grain has opened up into cracks about half a millimetre wide in a couple of places, which wiil need filling. Going to wait a few days to be sure its settled down before I finish it off. Cheers! Steve.

Last edited by Darren-UK; 18th Aug 2007 at 11:48 pm. Reason: Excessive use of emoticons.
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