Quote:
Originally Posted by staticmind
It turns out all the white Wicon film caps, while looking decent and unharmed are no good at all. They all measure about 10 times their value at DC (using Fluke 175) and slowly decreases by some nF until they settle. I had a feeling this might happen, so I ordered a whole bunch of replacement film caps, and decided just to replace all the Wicons.
Next thing will be hooking up my pattern generator. Maybe sometime next week.
This AW43-88 is surprisingly bright.
Is there anything I would need to worry about regarding the LOPTx now that I know it is working? I did not heat up the overwind prior to this, but the TV has sat in a very dry environment for the past 6 months, and I did heat it up with a hair dryer. Maybe I should monitor the temperatures using an infrared thermometer...
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Many people advise running some dc through the lopt to bake it from inside out...but i also see many people restoring sets that previously worked and after messing and fussing with the lopt it just gives up....
so my method is buy a set, inspect it, change ONLY obviously faulty and very problematic parts like boost filter cap and coupling caps if they are from unreliable brands,then if its a series string set i just aplly direct power to get a baseline on it..make the needed repairs...power it up and watch some movies...i start by watching 15 minutes then letting the set cool, then 30 minutes etc..some issues will appear and i repair them, after i am able to watch a full movie without issues i dismatle the thing, clean it,replace all fil caps, restuff the lytics etc etc then a final adjustment...if i see some areas on the lopt that look crummy i just coat them in automotive RTV gasket sealer(sensor safe type), seems silly but it works . i just like to avoid burying money on sets that will just not work right.
on the pictures you posted i see retrace lines,maybe you have the brightness on maximum? its bright!
at this point i would just apply a signal and see how the set behaves, many sets of mine behave wildly with no signal but work flawlessly with signal applied, especially the philips sets with automatic horiz and vertical. they freak out without sync pulses, sometyimes showing what seems poor linearity, lack of complete vertical deflection and weird noise from the vertical output transformer...all of that clears up when they are playing something.
i dont have an eht probe, what i do is: if the set is working right, then setting the width control to just fill up the screen will have to provide the Boost voltage that comes written on the schematic. if that happens then you lopt is working at the optimal point and eht should(has to) be the specified one, unless maybe a faulty eht rectifier. if the boost voltage creeps up or down too much as the set warms up there are problems. boost voltage is easy to measure with any 1000v rated dmm, unlike eht and is a good indicator