Quote:
Originally Posted by PsychMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by PsychMan
Well, blast. I thinned the polyurethane with white spirit, got it nice and liquid like, no treacle. Applied with a brush as thinly as I could, and again I have a mess 
I will have to try again and see if I can spread it thinner still |
As I say in post 18, interaction with previous coat. |
Possibly, but the previous coat was the one with the wrinkles, except sanded back. After sanding I left it a day before trying to coat it again.
If I have to be that precise with the time frames between coats I might well never finish this
If you're correct I suppose I will have very lightly sand this and build some more layers over a few days.
I try to be scientific with this, because Im very inexperienced when it comes to finishing. I take the attitude if its not right, I did something wrong, therefore go back and try something different.
EDIT: so if it is interaction between coats, any idea what an ideal interval might be? I take it I want it cured to a point, but perhaps not entirely cured such that the new coats spirits start to dissolve it? |
The extra white spirit you used could also have had a more 'aggressive' effect on the previous coat, softening it and causing it to ripple.
To get off subject slightly, I no longer use polyurethane varnishes having had too many problems in the past and never really got a great finish. I use the new generation of 'milky' finishes that go on like melted butter, dry quickly and self level without any sign of brush strokes or anything like that. The stuff is milky from the can but it dries perfectly clear. I've used it extensively in recent years. I realise it's no use to you now, but for future projects I'd definitely consider it. I use Wilko clear varnish. They do it in gloss, satin and matt and in stain colours too. You simply will not beat it to get a great, hassle free finish every time. I used it in this project:
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=130650