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Old 28th Apr 2020, 6:39 pm   #38
David G4EBT
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cottingham, East Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 5,766
Default Re: Polyurethane Sanding Question

Sorry to hear of your continued hassles.

Just for future information, I don’t know how aware forum members are about the availability of iron-on veneer, which saves the hassle of glueing. Some members may have used iron on edging for ‘Conti-Board’ veneered chipboard, which is the only iron-on product I’ve had experience of, and it adheres very well.

Here’s one example of a company which supplies a variety of iron-on veneers:

https://www.veneersonline.co.uk/coll...-veneer-sheets

There are several options for glueing veneers, most of which have no doubt been used at one time or another by members. That includes coating both the veneer and the surface to which is to be applied with PVA glue and allowing it to dry, then to iron on the veneer, which causes the PVA to melt. I’ve no personal experience of that. If I have small pieces of veneer to fit, I use ‘Titebond Original’ which I also use for general woodworking. (It tends in woodworking circles to be known as ‘yeller’ due to its colour, albeit it dried colourless). For larger areas, I use hide glue, which I think most people will think is too much of a faff, but it’s what we were taught to do back in the 50’s in woodworking lessons at school and old habits die hard.

As I said earlier, I’ve always use spirit stains which have very low surface tension and penetrate really well as compared to water based stains, and I’ve never had a problem with staining veneer, other than making sure that the shade is what I wanted. Sometimes the title doesn’t correspond with the test result, especially with. Mahogany comes in veteran varieties which can vary from almost red to dark brown. Dark Oak, Walnut and Ebony can all turn out to be very similar.

Every good wish in your endeavours.
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