Doesn't it just! I have to admit it's been useful for me, especially with the lists of parts, as I'm not great at reading diagrams, and a fair few of the caps in my set are hard to read.
I've been looking at getting a 405 line set for some time, but the prices were always so high, so £15 was a no brainer for me, especially being a 2 minute drive away!
I was planning on getting a 625 to 405 converter back around Christmas, but decided against it as I didn't actually have a 405 line set at that time, but now I do, there's no question of me getting one.
The older threads will definitely come in handy, if needed, photos attached.
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I normally do a quick but cautious 'viability check' on vintage radios before I start spending money on it.
However I have never tackled a valve TV.
Apparently you can do a simple cathode emission test on a monochrome CRT (assuming 6V heater) using a 6V power supply, a 1K resistor and a multimeter.
Does anyone on this forum do simple tests like this before starting a full TV restoration?
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I'm much more cautious with TVs than radios and such, because of the LOPT and EHT. Much easier for something to go wrong, in my opinion.
Have you any more information on the DIY CRT tester? Perhaps something I can do before going any further.
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It sounds like the CRT is the original GEC, but most likely to have been made by Mazda (as were most of the GEC branded valves in the TV). Mazda CRTs have a poorer reputation for long life them most Mullard types. So, I would certainly try to check if the CRT is viable first.
I expect this CRT will have a 12.6V heater.
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I'd heard that about Mazda, it'll be my first Mazda tube, so i'll be curious how they compare to my other sets' tubes, although they're about 20 years newer than this set.
Would a 12V power supply work for the DIY tester? I'll just account for a lower reading, but it'll still give me a rough guess.
I've hope for the CRT, as I say, the set looks relatively low hour, and one of the better examples of the PCBs I've seen from other threads (No burns etc) so I guess it's fingers crossed until it's safe to power it up.
Perhaps OT, but I'm just curious, how hard would it actually be to rewind a LOPT? I'd imagine it'd be the same as a normal transformer?
Thanks
'77