Which teak oil?
 

Hi,

Not strictly a cabinet or chassis but hopefully allowed.

I'm building some shelves for my record/technology collections and want them to be in teak wood (70s themed) I've got the wood ready but not sure which oil to go with as I want it to look most 70s. Asking as I've only got one shot at this and don't want to mess it up. Just thought it'd be best to ask on here due to the time frame I want it to look.

Not looking to spend too much money either.

Thanks
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Teak oil is basically linseed oil with additives to enhance curing time. Don't think you'll find that there's much to choose between different makes so I'd just go for the most competively priced.

Alan

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Will keep that in mind.

Just that I saw some in a tin and the sticker that showed its finished colour looked quite dark, but others online look quite light.

Have to admit that I didn't see much colour difference between cheaper and more expensive ones, if any, of those advertised online.

Thanks
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Unless the oil contains stain (most teak oils don't) the oiled colour will largely be determined by the teak variety used. This can vary quite quite a bit depending on the geographic source of the timber. In general the oil will simply enhance the natural colour of the particular piece.

Alan

Re: Which teak oil?
 

I assume you’re using actual teak wood for the job? Worth testing on a scrap first before applying to the rest of it.

If you aren’t using teak but something lighter you will need a varnish with a a stain in it. Rustins do such a varnish, but really unless you’re experienced in finished you’re better off with real teak and some oil

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Sorry I realised I'd made a mistake,

It's not actual teak wood, im not sure what species of wood but it's light. I'd need a stain.

I've got some scrap and some experience in it, so I'm happy to have a go.

What's a good stain, for a 70s looking teak?

Thanks
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Wilkingson sell a teak dye and teak oil. I've used Wilkingson's own brand stuff before and it has always been good stuff.

The beauty of the above is that it can be wiped on rather than painted on.

They also sell a teak stain which is a mixture of dye and varnish. Could be worth pursuing.

250Ml of dye will go a long way.

Of course, the final result will depend on the colour of the wood you have and the amounts of coats of dye applied.

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Looking at it online, it looks to be more of a browny colour, rather than the orangey colour. What's it like in person?

Thanks
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Have a look at one of the reviews for the Wilko teak dye. It shows a photo of the dye applied to a piece of wood and it looks an orange colour.

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Thanks

Looks like it'd be perfect with a couple of coats, as someone else has said in the reviews.

Thanks again
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

As an alternative to teak-oil there's also Danish Oil. I generally prefer this because it leaves a more-matt, less-shiny (and less-sticky so less-dust-attractive) finish.

Re: Which teak oil?
 

The formulation of oils varies widely depending on the manufacturer. Many so called Danish oils contain a greater proportion of varnish than more basic mixtures. Always worth testing a particular finish before proceeding. Don't rely on colour charts, web images and tin pictures as these often don't give a realistic impression of the final result.

Alan

Re: Which teak oil?
 

If it's a pine or spruce type of softwood I wouldn't use an oil on it because of the resin in the wood can leave the finish sticky.

Regards
David

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Just to point out, when finishing bare wood, there's a lot of difference between applying an oil and applying any other kind of finish that results in an actual skin on the surface of the wood. 'Oil', as in teak oil will sink into previously unfinished wood and it won't make an awful lot of difference how many applications (I don't say coats) you make. On the other hand, Danish oil, varnish, lacquer etc can be obtained with stains incorporated but will require multiple coats and perhaps sanding between coats. If I was wanting to apply a finish to shelving I would not use use an oil, I would use a 'varnish' of some kind that contained a stain. That way you will end up with a finish that is much less likely to gather dust and also far easier to wipe clean. My own preference (as everyone on here knows by now!) is Wilko quick dry varnish that is available in gloss, satin and matt versions and different stain options too. It goes on like soft butter with a brush and is totally problem free to get a perfect finish.

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Looks like Wilkos is the place to go :-D

I think it's pine wood, so I'll avoid an oil as said. I'll look for varnishes with stains in.

Thanks for your help all, appreciate it
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

I used the rustins varnish to do exactly the same thing a few years back, make pine look teak like. To be honest I made a complete shambles of it! But the varnish was good!

The advice I'd give is get several different grades of sandpaper (400, 600, 1000, 2000). The last 2 if you're going for something glossy and want to buff it up afterwards. Do many light coats and lightly sand with 600 grit between. And as others have said practice the method a little on scrap wood first

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Thanks for that tip, PsychMan. I'll definitely do that then. Luckily I'll have some scrap wood so i'll have a practice run or two (or three) before I do it properly on the shelves.

Thanks for the help
'77

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Oil is good for the wood (it helps alleviate the problem of being cut down and losing sustenance for the tree). It's not so good for a surface protection for humans. A Danish oil is a blend of oil and varnish - the oil soaks into the wood and the varnish sits on top, so you get the best of both worlds. There are a lot of nonsense oils around these days that people swear by ('Tung' etc.). They are all simply variants of linseed oil which has been used as a wood preservative for many hundreds of years. If you've ever been to a living history museum, you've seen a piece of linseed preserved wood in an Elizabethan house.

As other posters have said, if you want a smooth finish with a shiny, polished look; go for a varnish (and a stain to get the colour you want) and sand between coats.

Re: Which teak oil?
 

It may be worth noting that teak, boiled linseed and Danish oils all have additives to ensure that they dry/cure fully. These finishes do not lead to stickiness in themselves. It's only raw oils (linseed or tung) that can take a very long time to cure and really need to be avoided in this respect.

Alan

Re: Which teak oil?
 

Dispelling the myth of 'Teak oil':

https://www.escapeartist.com/blog/di...myth-teak-oil/