Ekco SH25 - help requested.

[Kentode]

After 12 months of restoration due to the 2015 boxing day floods I now have a new workshop.

It's good to be back!

I've been asked to bring this Ecko back to life and the following are causing some concern.

I would like to use the same type of resistors. What are they called?

The capacitor blocks will be left for a future restorer to melt as I'm not allowed to make a mess of the new kitchen! (We were 9 months without anything on the ground floor).

Finally, how do I get to caps 21 and 22 (class Y)?

I'm using the 1934 and 1943 trader sheets and have the excellent article by Matt Spanner in the summer 2012 bulletin.

[Boater Sam]

Tapped resistor can be made with a dog bone resistor with the paint removed and a clamp for the tap, If you can get one the correct value overall.
Y (& X) caps are stock items at RS, Farnell etc.
X is for across the mains use, Y is either mains P or N to earth.

[Kentode]

Thanks Sam, a dogbone will look better than two 2-watters.

I should have said, how do I reach these caps as they are tucked behind another paxolin board which is riveted to the chassis.

They're the two black components (see pic).

[Herald1360]

With a bit of dismantling and a lot of XX<><><>****!!!!

[Kentode]

I'm going to drill the rivets out, and move the board. After replacing the caps I'll use 3mm screws and nuts.

Looking at class X and Y caps, they all seem to be square vishay or rifa ( or nos wima!). I'd like something more in keeping with the original black ones. Any suggestions?

[Herald1360]

For the class X you could reasonably use 1000V or higher rated polyprop axial types- painted black if you like. For the class Y that would be a less reasonable option, but you'll not easily find an axial class Y cap though you might find a black radial one.

If the set's for your own use, of course you can accept any risk you like, but if it isn't, just accept the appearance and use the correctly rated parts.

You may have room to hide the radial parts inside a black tube, of course.

[Kentode]

Thanks Chris, painting the caps is such a good and easy way to blend in new components.

As for the class Y caps, there are only 2 and they're tucked away in the corner, so I think I'll go with the vishay's.

This radio is for a friend so safety is paramount, although he insisted that the lethal two -pronged plug shouldn't be replaced! I have shown him how you can partially remove it and touch the National Grid!

Edit. The flex in the picture will be redressed.

[Boater Sam]

I have a way of making the 2 pin plug polarised. The "plug" is of course really a socket.
Assemble the plug with a longer bolt and fit a right angle bracket on the bolt so that it buts up flat face to the chassis when the plug is engaged fully on the pins. Glue this to the plug half as well to prevent it twisting.
Fit another angle to the chassis so that the flange protrudes, just outside the outline and adjacent to the plug, then the plug will only fit one way round.
Make the angle on the chassis stick out enough so that it is impossible to engage the pins when it is the wrong way. The back cover should then prevent the plug being pulled off as well.
Done lots of DAC90As like this.
Wish I could draw, a picture would be worth all of the above!

[Kentode]

Thanks Sam, I like the idea of having the socket held captive, as this would prevent reverse polarity and touching the exposed pins.